Here we have a top table mount for use on a Qidi Plus 4 utilizing a 1 inch riser designed by HandToolBrad  [https://makerworld.com/en/models/688991-qidi-plus4-1-riser#profileId-627673](https://makerworld.com/en/models/688991-qidi-plus4-1-riser#profileId-627673) . This only works on his riser. If using the Qidi Box then print his right rear corner   [https://makerworld.com/en/models/1649504-qidi-plus4-1-riser-usb-corner-for-qidibox-usb-hub#profileId-1743780](https://makerworld.com/en/models/1649504-qidi-plus4-1-riser-usb-corner-for-qidibox-usb-hub#profileId-1743780)   This will allow you to use a Qidi Box and a 2 spool dryer on top of the Plus 4 and still allowing the top glass to be vented when printing PLA. This is designed to be used with a wall shelf from Home Depot that measures 12x24 inches. Available in black and grey for about 12 bucks. To print the right side bracket you have to y-mirror the right side bracket as loaded on the build plate. I added some adhesive faux leather material behind the spool mount on the circular piece and on the right side mount on the bottom that faces the side of the printer. I bought this from Amazon. This is to protect from scratching the machine side. Some post processing is needed such as the holes in the cap and top have to be drilled larger to accommodate the 4x15mm taper head attaching screws. I did not taper these holes when modelling but instead went to Harbor freight and bought a taper drill for just a few bucks (see pic). Does a LOT better job in my opinion. Also need to clean/file the legs that fit in above the handle where the side slots are. I designed this to be a snug fit to eliminate movement. And the ptfe tube hole has to be enlarged.  If you don't need the spool holder then print the right side file and use on the left side and then y-mirror it for the right side (power switch side) , confusing I know. Just look closely at the images and you can tell how each side goes. If you are going to print this riser then here are some tips:

1. Print one half of the riser (right or left doesn't matter) and check fitment for the glass. I had to scale the Front & rear corner on one side to 104% on the Y-Axis (as installed on the machine) to get the glass to fit. The others were fine
2. I had to trim the points on the triangle connectors and file underneath them to get them to slide together without excessive force and breaking when assembling

I used HT-PLA filament. I changed the wall count and infill % from Brads specs. Might have contributed to the scaling and post processing needed. I spent about a week start to finish and over 3.5 kgs of filament to get this done. This was due to trial and error, scaling and breaking while assembling etc.... All in all it turned out fine. Had a little issue with the lower part of the center pieces as seen in the pics. Corners printed fine. I can now print hard & brittle engineering filaments without worrying about the filament snapping entering the hotend (have to take ptfe tube out of holder nearest the hotend). I printed all of the parts with my Qidi Plus 4. P.S. I used a cap on the end of the filament spool tube to add a TPU "Bearing" for use with cardboard filament spools. Enjoy !!!

ADDED: Put a glass lid holder on right side table mount . Needs to be mirrored also. Tight fit on the holder but will work !! Enjoy EDIT: Modified lid holder for easier operation EDIT: Added pre-tapered top plate EDIT: Added pre-tapered cap FYI: I discovered thru youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N63sJpSaLCY that if you are using HT-PLA filament, increasing the nozzle temp drastically improves print quality and strength. Polymaker recommends 210-230 and I printed at 225. As you could see in the pics, the middle pieces were rough on the lower parts. I am reprinting using 245c initial and 240c on all others and the print quality has dramatically improved. Oh well, another kg and a half used ;0 Added: Pic of 240c printed center verses 225c center EDIT: Loaded wrong right side bracket w/o lid holder. Ooops Corrected EDIT: Discovered that a pla or petg "Bearing" actually works better than tpu. Spins almost as smooth as ball bearings