Edit: I now have a 2.0 version which addresses some issues I had with this version. I will upload and add a link here when I get a chance.

This is very much a WIP! I plan on improving it a lot, but am only releasing it, because it was requested.

If you have ideas of how it can be improved and/or you want to use it as a base for something, I would love that! I would super appreciate if you'd let me know about it, just because I want things to consider for my own personal controller.

I am just uploading the fusion 360 files and describing how I made it, for now. Components to print:

Chasis - First, turn off the Backing component that is inside this component. This is intended to be printed on its front along the diagonal of a large enough printer (see the picture above to see how the print looks. This was done to maximize the size we can make it in one piece). Backing - With a large enough printer, this can be printed on the large flat face if you rotate it 45 degrees along the diagonal of the printer Left hand Module with no recession - If you want to recess the buttons, there are bodies that can be moved around Right hand Module with no recession - See above. Left Wrist Rest - Feel free to adjust thickness. I personally change the color once it gets to the part that slides onto the chasis so that the color matches the chasis and hides it better. Right Wrist Rest - See above.

Peg Organizer - Slot these into the holes for wire management. I used about 40 of these Screws -> Screw005 - I used 4 of these to close the case Screws -> Screw006 - I use 2 of these to hold the wrist rests in place (see gif).

I used:

• OLED displays: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FK8GB8T?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1
• This USBC mount: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08HS6X44P?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title
• These bolts (specifically M4x8): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07S18NHP5?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title
• 2mm square nuts (I got on aliexpress, I don't have the link on hand, but I can add it later if requested)
• This microcontroller: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09KZKKWJT?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title
• These hot-swap sockets for the mechanical switches: https://kailhswitch.net/products/kailh-mechnical-keyboard-switches-hot-swap-pcb-socket-diy-for-1350-choc-low-profile-keyboard-switches?srsltid=AfmBOoqSxIfz1hBNPwWsniXdSzrDBSKXZBqLkfecQoq3HxtjwPUfCaKV
• Kailh Saker Mini low-profile mechanical switches: https://kailhswitch.net/products/kailh-saker-mini-low-profile-switch-ultra-short-total-travel-quick-acuation-mechanical-keyboard-switch?srsltid=AfmBOopE5JWODF7Zz_ELhNKYyhE9O61wQoZ7HfnGlH0DyCx2wJ0dpFaV

Things I would personally experiment with/change:

1. The part that grips the end of the USBC mount that connects to the microcontroller was too tight and hard to fit in, but I already offset it a little bit, so maybe it's fine.
2. There is a "traffic jam" of wires in the bottom-right. It may be possible to fit the microcontroller in the middle instead of on the side, which would help distribute this.
3. Extra wire is required in order to allow the sockets to be moved around for new modules. Ideally I would think of some way to wind the wire so it isn't loosely everywhere.
4. There is a rectangle of extra space in the bottom-left that is intended for a USB passthrough like the magicboots. I did not have one, though, so I just left space. Once I get one, I plan on modeling a better fitted place for it.
5. Two more 3d-printed bolts might be useful to hold the backing down better on the outside