###Disclaimer: Modding your electronic devices can be dangerous, and you may end up damaging them. Use at your own risk. The creator of these models is not responsible for any damage caused as a result of using them.

###The Housing: The Anbernic RG35XX H is probably my favorite retro handheld on the market right now. It's a full-featured powerhouse at a shockingly cheap price. However, the transparent versions of the handheld use a plastic that's just a little too brittle, so it's easy to crack if you try to repair it.

Since I couldn't find a replacement shell for the system, I figured now was as good a time as ever to hone my Blender skills and whip up a new one. (Once again, thanks to Fábio Fontes for his wealth of advice.)

###Required Tools For Mod: -Screwdrivers: Torx TR5, Philips 0 -Spudger/Plectrums for ribbon cables/battery/tabs/screen -Sandpaper (for smoothing button wells and the outside of the shell) -Deburring tool (for sharp edges from the first layer, sandpaper works as well) -Double-Sided Screen Tape (For reattaching the screen, battery) -Black Electrical Tape (For preventing light leakage from the screen) (optional) -The original screws from the device.

###Recommended Settings: -Positioning: Print the front and the back as SEPARATE JOBS, with the flat faces down and the screw standoffs pointing up. -Layer Height: 0.2 (0.3 initial) -Line Width: 0.4 -Wall Lines: 3 -Infill: 25%, Grid pattern -Supports: ON, use to secure the bracket that holds the screen in and the I/O slots. -Support Z-Distance: 0.3 (The rough edges that are left by the overhang will be obscured when the device is assembled) -Adhesion: Brim, 8 lines, 0.1mm distance. (Make sure to deburr, or face the hand scratches!) -Print slow! This design has lots of small areas that can be fragile.

###Installation Instructions:### Disassembly: 1.) Leave the device on to fully discharge the battery. 2.) Tear down the device and put all the small parts in a safe place (such as an anti-static bag.) 3.) (Note: This is VERY DANGEROUS to someone inexperienced! DO NOT USE HEAT OR BEND THE BATTERY!) Unstick the battery from the back housing using a thin, NYLON prying tool such as a guitar pick. 4.) Carefully remove the black Vinyl from the back of the screen. 5.) Unstick the screen assembly from the plastic case. This is quite difficult! Use a hair dryer to heat up the foam adhesive and use a thin prying tool to gradually work the screen free. Reassembly: 6.) Ensure the printed case feels good to the touch! Sand and deburr as necessary. (NOTE: Be very careful with the pegs for the L/R buttons! They are fragile until the device is fully assembled!) 7.) Test the fit of each individual component (screen, buttons, motherboard, etc.) to ensure they fit inside the replacement shell. 8.) Use double-sided screen tape to secure the screen to the front of the case and the battery to the back of the case in the same orientation they were when disassembled. Reapply the black-vinyl guard for the screen if you still have it, or use electrical tape to replace it. 9.) Reassemble the device, following the same steps used to disassemble it in reverse order. The SAME SCREWS are used! 10.) Test the device and make sure everything is working properly! Finally, enjoy! Be sure to upload a make, so others can see your handiwork!

###Remixing: This is the second functional print I've designed, and the first one of this complexity. It was a huge learning experience. As such, there are definitely still some improvements to be made. If you want to make changes, feel free! The blender file is included.

###Changes from Stock: -The Back half of the housing is much thicker and taller. Since this version doesn't have tabs like the official one, this is to add some structural integrity, as well as leave a little more room for any mods. -The "divots" for the SD card slots are flipped over so they don't have to print at an overhang. -The joystick wells are rounded out and do not require supports.

###Known Issues: -The edges of the L1/R1 buttons sink below the very corner of the housing -The wells for the Start, Select, and F button are slightly wide, making them wobble a little. -The ABXY buttons are slightly loose compared to the original. -Certain pegs and standoffs lack support can can break off if not printed slowly and treated carefully. These are not as much of an issue once the device is assembled.