My amateur radio "Hammo Can". It started out with a lattice for strength, and quickly aborted that. It is a series of brackets that screw together (heat set insert nuts, all M3 except for the radio attachment screws themselves). There are some "generic" parts for a power module (a shunt plane and a display bezel) along with a generic radio bracket. There are specific parts to be used in place of these generics. The hardware to accompany this is :

• A TYT-TH9800D Radio (A TYT TH-9800 is loosely based on a Yaesu FT-8900, so this might fit, but I cannot verify because I do not have one)
• An AtemPower AP100BM power interface (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BRX8J9CF is the one I opted for)
• Three switches that can be used for total power cut off, etc
• A 12v LiFePo battery (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BNKZPL6V specifically) [this is the only part not modular, but it might be a standard form factor - I simply did not research that and designed around this battery]
• A 50 caliber plastic ammo can (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T4XKY3M specifically - I went with the purple one to keep it separate from my hard drive grab-and-go box)

It uses m3 flat head machine screws everywhere to hold the radio body in place as well as the bezels (most HAM's will have these in possession already), but M4x0.7-12mm (2x) to hold one side of the radio body and an M4x0.7-16mm on the other side of the body).

The main chassis should end up around 11.217" (284.9118mm) long, 6.102" (154.9908mm) wide, and 6.315" (160.4010mm) tall once assembled, so you can adjust as necessary. If you need resulting dimensions of other parts, you can use FreeCAD (the full definition was also included here) to generate them.

My advice is to rotate the parts for the least amount of bridging or reduced time in printing.

If you do not have the print area for the top plate, there are two other STL's referenced as a 2-part top plate (left and right). Those can be printed and screwed together. If you are working on a relatively limited printer, this could be your best option. On my CR-10s, I could print the top plate without a brim or a raft, but my first run at the bad form (no longer included in this "thing"), it warped my print bed enough that I had to switch to a raft, and that meant I could not print the full size top plate any longer, hence the 2-part design also being included. Note that the 2-part top plate may not have good visuals, and after screwing it together, I did use a plastic welder for the seam (the future potential for water-proofing everything when it goes into the can).

There will be clean up on the various parts as things are assembled - it was put into FreeCAD by a geek with some serious tolerance problems.

Assembly

• Install the heat-set inserts in ALL the parts. If you used the two-part top plate, you will use an extra four of the inserts, and an extra four of the m3x10mm machine screws.
• Next, install the radio itself to the radio module.
• If you printed the two-part top plate, combine the two top plates together with four screws. Plastic-weld the two parts together (this is purely optional).
• Fit the switch plate to the top plate, and screw together.
• Temporarily install the radio face plate (the part that comes with your radio) to the adapter block, but do not tighten.
• Install the radio face plate to the top plate.
• Measure where the radio adapter bracket (what came with your radio, not the block itself) sits, and remove the block and radio face plate.
• Re-install the radio adapter bracket without the radio face plate itself to the adapter block.
• Install the radio face plate adapter block and bracket to the top chassis plate again.
• Shift the radio face plate adapter until it matches what was measured above in step 7.
• Tighten the radio face plate adapter bracket (what came with the radio) to the adapter block.
• Remove the adapter block, and add the cables required for the radio face plate, and install the face plate to the adapter block/bracket combination.
• Install the battery box to the top plate through the radio face plate connector.
• Install the radio face plate to the top chassis, running cables into the cavity underneath the box where they can be connected to the radio.
• Fit the power module into the bezel, then attach it to the top plate.
• Install the battery connectors for the top plate.
• Install the radio module itself to the top chassis.
• Install wiring to the battery, and to the power module, switches, the battery terminals, the battery box (add the connectors for the battery, too) and the radio itself.
• Install the extra bracket.
• Install the shunt plane bracket (not the adapter).
• Insert the battery to the battery box, and strap it in using a velcro strap (not really required, but recommended to prevent the battery from bouncing around) to secure it in position.
• Route wires around the shunt plane bracket.
• Install the radio module shunt plane adapter and shunt plane.
• Program the radio using your computer (again, while optional, I highly recommend it).
• Drop the block into the hammo can.
• Weather strip around the top edge to lock the panel into position and secure the chassis.

Your radio should be ready for an antenna and an emergency. A good source of information is the "Radio Reference" database (https://www.radioreference.com/db/aid/7771) where you can look up frequencies specific to your location. I would recommend (if your radio supports these frequencies) :

27.065 (CB Channel 9) - Emergency
52.525 (6-meter) - FM band for ham radio operators
138.225 - FEMA disaster relief (primary)
146.52 (2-meter) - non-repeater, HAM frequency
154.28 - local fire department (may vary)
155.160 - local search and rescue (may vary)
155.475 - local police emergency (may vary)
156.75 - maritime weather alerts
156.80 - maritime distress
163.4875 - national guard emergency channel
163.5125 - armed forces disaster preparedness
168.55 - federal civilian agency for emergencies and disasters
243.00 - military aviation emergency
462.675 (70cm) - GMRS emergency channel 20

Once set up, connect your antenna and give it a test run.