NOTE: You will need a printer that can print at least 248mm x 216mm in the X/Y directions to successfully make this insert.

Version 1.1 (2025-09-26)

Based on feedback, I have redesigned the insert to move the game board from the bottom of the box to near the top (just under the player boards). This makes setup easier.

Upgrading to V1.1 The following parts have changed between V1 and V1.1, so if you've already printed the prior version you only need to reprint these pieces from V1.1.

• card_boxes_box
• cards_deck_box
• keys_stars_box
• lower_filler
• police_bag_box
• start_box
• top_box_filler

Because the new "cards_deck_box" is completely different and in a new location, there is no longer a need for the cutout in the "screens_contact_board_box", which is reflected in the V1.1 model (along with the contact board cutout now being centered). However, the original "screens_contact_board_box" is compatible with this version so it is not necessary to reprint this model unless you prefer the new design.

The "filler_box_x2" models are no longer used.

Original Description

This is an insert designed to fit the great Vital Lacerda game Escape Plan (Kickstarted Bundle) from Eagle-Gryphon Games. It completely replaces the provided vacuum-formed insert that comes with the game. Highlights include:

• Store tiles and tokens in boxes that conveniently go from box to board to significantly speed game setup.
• Two money boxes that keep the supply tokens organized during the game and distributed to opposite sides of the table.
• Supports premium sleeves (at least 80 microns thick)
• Choice of boxes with lids or boxes without lids.
• Many embossments to help identify the contents of boxes. Emboss options include multi-color, single-color, "negative," or none.
• No lid lift.

In the included images you will see that I printed some parts in white and some in black. The black parts are all those which are intended to be placed on or near the game board. (These are the parts that can really reduce setup time.) The white parts are all parts which hold components but are returned to the box during the game. You, of course, are free to print these however you like.

Based on my experience with my Lisboa insert, I have designed this insert to support tokens much (0.5mm, or nearly 20%) thicker than the ones I have in my copy of the game. This should ensure everything fits properly regardless of variations in token thickness. However, because of the way the money tokens are stored angled in their boxes, I have provided two versions of this model, one which supports the thickness of tokens I have and one which is designed for the thickest token this insert supports. The angle of the money tokens makes them not slide into place easily when the box is designed to hold a thicker token than your game has, so I recommend measuring them with calipers (or measure a stack of 10 or 20 with a ruler and divide by the number in the stack). If your tokens are 3.0mm thick or thicker, print the "money_box_thick_token_x2.stl" model. If they're closer to 2.8mm or less, print the "money_box_x2.stl" model. You might want to only print one box at a time until you can confirm which box works best for your tokens.

The box to hold the player screens is provided as both a one-piece model (302mm long) for those lucky enough to have a printer able to print it in one piece, as well as a two piece model with interlocking tabs that should not require any glue but should hold the box together pretty well.

I generally prefer to have lids on my boxes to help ensure everything stays in place even if the game box lid lifts a little bit. However, I have created lidless box options for those who prefer open-top boxes. These open-top boxes end up being the same exact size as their corresponding boxes with lids so you can mix and match the styles if you should desire. (For example, I used an open-top box for the police bag box in the insert shown in the pictures.)

This design also offers numerous options for embossed images which make it easier to determine the contents of each box (as well as to look cool). Options here are: some lids with multi-color embossments (the money box lids and player box lids especially) single-color embossments a few "negative" embossments (only when used inside of boxes, not for the lids—they would not be strong enough) no embossments at all.

I have provided the STLs in five different configurations (plus a 6th set of parts that are the same regardless of the box style and emboss options), as well as .3mf files (from OrcaSlicer) with the various boxes and lids pre-built into all the available options. The STLs are organized into folders which describe the options uses to create them.

If you use the .3mf files, print all the plates in "common_parts.3mf", and then the box(es) and lid(s)—if that's the option you choose—of your choice from the 11 remaining "variations" 3mf files. I strongly recommend printing at least the "Sandra" and "Costa" boxes with lids as these boxes store on their sides in the box and the cards will very likely not stay put if you don't use lids. Nevertheless, I have provided open-top variants of these models for the sake of completeness.

Please note that I have only actually printed the boxes with lids and mulit-color embossments (except for the police box, as mentioned above), but I have closely checked all the other variations in the slicer and believe them to be accurate and functional.

The boxes with lids (and their corresponding lids) print best at 0.16 layer height (0.4 nozzle), as well as the money boxes, but 0.20 is OK for everything else. You really want to use 0.16 (or lower) for the boxes with lids—and the lids themselves—as there are some small but steep overhangs that are supported much better by a slightly smaller layer height. (Check your slicer preview.) No supports are needed if you print at 0.16 or less. If you use the provided .3mf files, these settings should already be set for you.

I printed these with 10% gyroid infill, and 5 top layers to ensure nice, smooth top surfaces. PLA+ works great for all of these models.

Finally, the lids for all the boxes are friction fit and fit the bottom of their boxes so they don't get lost during play. The tolerances on these can be somewhat tight, but they came out beautifully on my Bambu X1C.

The number of copies of a model you need to print is indicated by an "_x" suffix on the file name. If there is no "_x" suffix, then you just need one.