The standard Solidoodle case doesn't provide enough clearance above the extruder, which can lead to filament stripping. It's also irritating to have to use a screwdriver to remove the case, so you may end up running the printer with the case just resting on top of its fixing screws. This isn't very secure, and can be very noisy.

This Thing provides a set of parts to raise the case by 25mm (enough to avoid any problems of filament fouling) and uses thumbscrews to both hold the case securely and allow quick removal. N.B. - to make the case fit properly using this kit you will have to make some new holes in the back of your Solidoodle case. Be sure you're happy to do the metalwork before starting to make these parts.

The thumbscrews are derived from Jon Bondy's highly recommended Solidoodle bed-levelling thumbscrews http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:38064

The front pillars are fitted with slots to hold a small polycarbonate window.

I've provided STL files with both grouped and individual objects so you have a choice of how to print the parts.

I printed the parts in ABS with layers 3 and infill 0.2. There are big overhangs on the risers so these must be printed with support. Before fitting the pillars you'll need to file or Dremel out some clearance to fit over the blind rivets at the corner of the Solidoodle frame. Glue the pillars in place with epoxy. The front pillars have their support slots at the front edge. I also stuck some thin rubber (old bike inner tube) on top of the pillars to help reduce rattling. Then cut a piece of polycarbonate (if you want a window) or plywood, thick card etc. to fill the open space at the front. The risers at the front corners of the case will also benefit from having some clearance provided for the rivet heads. Then use 1/8" blind rivets (alternatively small nuts and bolts) to fix the risers to the case with the heads on the inside. You should use washers with the blind rivets or the plastic will split - the risers have holes to take standard sized washers. The modified thumb screws have a 6mm counterbore to accomodate the head of an M3 screw, and the through hole is narrower than the original. If available, just run an M3 tap through the hole and fit a 16mm M3 screw. Alternatively, bore out the hole (before or after printing) and epoxy the M3 screw in place. Note, there's a small unsupported overhang inside the counterbore so you may need to remove a small loop of loose ABS. If your Solidoodle is like mine, the Y-axis rods stick a few mm out of the back of the case. For the case to fit snugly you'll need to make some new clearance holes in the rear flange. Either drill and file, or use a small hole saw. The final photo shows the additional holes. You may want to stick a strip of stout card inside the top rear flange of the case to cover the (now redundant) clearance holes for the filament feed and the cable bundle.