10mm MakerBeam parts required: 8 or 10 T-Nuts (you'll need 8 if you don't want to use the USB mount or 10 if you do) 4 or 6 M3x6 screws (for the T-Nuts securing the motherboard rails and the USB mount if you use it) 5 300mm Beams

Non-MakerBeam parts: 14 M3x10 screws (with head no larger than 6mm diameter) 1 #6-32 Nut (should be 1/4" across the flats and 3/32" thick) 1 #6-32 Screw (3/8" long) 4 #6-32 Screw (1/4" long) 2 M3x13 or M3x15 screws 2 M3 nuts 4 M3 motherboard screws

Some Notes:

GPU width maxes out at about 60-62mm depending on exactly where the GPU is that wide.

Using the long caps the GPU can be up to about 335mm long.

Using the short caps the GPU can be up to about 305mm long.

CPU cooler can be about 125mm tall, just make sure it doesn't extend past the edge of the motherboard or it might hit the beam if you're using one that's that tall.

PSU should be SFX.

The USB mount I have included fits some random USB port I found online at some point. I have included it in the files for reference, you can use it if you happen to have one that mounts with the same pattern or just use it as an idea for how to make one that fits your own USB port.

The 3/8" long #6-32 screw and the nut are for securing the GPU's IO bracket. Press the nut into the slot in the IO plate and then use the screw like you normally would to secure the GPU.

The 1/4" long #6-32 screws are for mounting your PSU to the bracket. You might be able to use longer screws if there are no components inside the PSU sitting super close to the holes.

The 14 M3x10 screws are for the end caps (5 on each end cap) and the remaining 4 are for the PSU mount's T-Nuts

The M3x13 or M3x15 screws and nuts are for securing the PSU cable to the IO cap, it's hard to get a nut on the hole that's towards the motherboard if you're inserting the screw from the "outside" so consider passing the screws through the other way and using nuts on the outside. You could also use larger diameter screws and screw directly into the plastic but I don't know how well that will hold up.

Speaking of threading directly into plastic... the motherboard rails are meant to just have the M3 motherboard screws screwed directly into the plastic. As long as you don't over tighten and strip the threads they'll hold just fine. You can even remove and reinstall those screws a surprising number of times and the plastic threads will hold up if you don't over-tighten. If you really hate the idea of screwing into plastic you could design a rail that uses a hole for a threaded insert and then just use 7mm tall motherboard standoffs (measured from the flat part of the motherboard rail from where the plastic "standoff" protrudes).

Print the IO caps with support everywhere since there are a couple of parts that overhang on the inside.

Other parts can be printed with support on build plate only, if you're using .2mm or thinner layers any vertical holes will be fine without supports.

The rear cap (or top cap if you're standing it up) has a hole for a normal 16mm power button.

The IO cap (or bottom cap if you're standing it up) has a spot to mount a standard panel mounted power cable extension. This may interfere with a cooler that sits very close to the PCIe slot.

If you print the vertical stand, those little pegs drop into each recess on the stand and then fit into the holes on the IO cap so everything stays in alignment. The pegs can be glued into the stand side.

I think that's about it, good luck!