RiffRaff, a villain on Underdog, from an American Saturday morning animated television series that ran from 1964, to 1967.

Riffraff is an anthropomorphic wolf gangster. He leads an unnamed gang that often carry out various crime waves until they are stopped by Underdog. He is portrayed as more of a comic relief minor villain.

No supports are required. If you have the proper filament colors, no painting is needed.

This model is the bottom part of a complete model with my previously released Underdog model. Due to the slicing at the top of the head to fit with Underdog, this model should only be printed along with the Underdog model.

The assembled Underdog/RiffRaff model is 255mm tall with a base of 171x171mm (fits on a Prusa Mini)

Enjoy!

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Special shoutout to maker Benoît Lussier for providing QA printing and quality feedback. Special thanks to Jason McMillan (makerworld ID Gatekeeper) for creating the Bambu Print Profile.

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Print Instructions: Supports: no supports are required Resolution: .2mm Infill: 15%

Building the model

Colors

Black: (Devil Designs PLA - Black) r_eyes_blacks (file contains two identical pieces) r_shirt r_eyebrow_right r_eyebrow_left r_nose r_head_black ..

Pink/Purple: (CookieCad PLA - Lavender) r_eye_rim_right r_eye_rim_left ..

Light Grey: (Paramount3d PLA - Prototype Grey) r_ear_right r_ear_left r_mouth ..

Yellow: (Paramount3d PLA - Simpson Yellow) r_eyes_yellow (file contains two identical pieces) r_tie ..

Dark Grey: (Paramount3d PLA - Prototype Grey) r_jacket ..

Brown: (Hatchbox PLA - Brown) base_inside ..

Speckled Grey: (Paramount3d - Medusa Stone Grey) base ..

White: (Devil Designs PLA - White) r_eyewhite_left r_eyewhite_right r_head_white r_star r_hand ..

Any color (hidden piece) pin_head ..

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Printing and assembly tips

Printing tips:

1 - No supports are required

2 - There are some pieces that may need brims or rafts, use your discretion. When setting up my prints I prefer to be conservative to ensure the least chance of a print failure, especially since the base of many parts are hidden when inserted into another part.

*I used a brim on: r_hand

3 - When removing parts from the printer bed, it's a VERY good idea to place left/right parts into separate containers to help with the assembly process. Sometimes the difference between the left and right parts is very small but it is still worth keeping track of them (especially if you size up the model significantly) and assembling them in their proper place.

.. Assembly tips:

1 - Take your time gluing the model together and enjoy the process. Dry fit all the parts and give some thought into which parts to glue together as groups and then gluing the groups together. Let the glue for each group set completely before combining groups.

2 - I used 3D Gloop and E6000 to put this model together. Each type of glue has different pros/cons and I found that fast drying 3D Gloop was far easier to use than superglue (for me). The E6000 sticky glue allows more time to position parts and is still the best for smaller parts. For both glues using a smaller amount is usually better than more glue.

3 - Gluing/assembling this model is straight forward. The model can be glued completely and then joined with the Underdog model (posted separately).

4 - An FYI for my models. Typically the bed side of a part is the side that is inserted into another part. For this model the r_eyes_blacks and r_eyebrow_right/left are an exception and the bed side faces out, making assembly much, much easier for these parts.

5 - Refer to the assembly diagrams in the pictures section as well as the uploaded pictures for putting the model together. The model is meant to be glued.

As noted in the beginning of this writeup, this model is to be combined with my previously released Underdog model

Do not hesitate to ask questions, feedback is essential to making better models.