This is a buttonbox based on the A-10C SAS and AUX light panel that's next to the throttle. Took some creative liberty and added a flap switch as my x52 joystick is lacking enough buttons. it is powered by an arduino nano running DCS-Bios fork by Skunkworks https://github.com/DCS-Skunkworks/dcs-bios

have added the DCS-Bios sketch that is running on the arduino that can be used as an example. Note: the 4 On-Off switches used for the SAS are not used in the sketch and do not function as such as they are magnetically held switches in the real aircraft. not sure to what i am going to map them as yet.

Working on multiple button boxes that are going to be uploaded when they are tested.

• LASTE panel. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6704303
• Electrical panel with master caution and fuel switches/display (parts ordered)
• countermeasure panel. (Design stage)
• Radiostack. (Initial planning done)

BOM: -switches are 12mm: https://a.aliexpress.com/_EH76TaP 5x Off - On 2x ON-OFF-ON

-1x (ON)-OFF-(ON) (momentary both ways) https://a.aliexpress.com/_EITdByx

-3x momentary arcade button. https://a.aliexpress.com/_EQazUWF -3x B10K potentiometers. https://a.aliexpress.com/_EQMyiST -Led holder https://a.aliexpress.com/_EGhnVSP -5mm LED with 220ohm resistor -4x 4mm m3 brass inserts. https://a.aliexpress.com/_EyBJYnl

-4x m3x10 screw -Arduino Nano (Mini USB) lots of wire, some solder, hotglue and CA glue.

Assembly:

• Mount all switches and potentiometers.
• Add ground to all the switches, centre pin is ground on the 3 position switches.
• Add wires to the remaining pins and connect them to the arduino digital pins (not on pin 13!), the remaining wires can go to the analog pins after connecting the potentiometers.
• measure the potentiometer between the centre and the outer pins on ohms mode with the potentiometer turned all the way counter clockwise. The 0 ohm outer pin needs to be hooked up to ground, the other outer pin to 5v and the centre pin to an analog in on the arduino.
• add the sleeve over the led pins and solder the resistor and wires to the led and resistor, use some heat shrink to insulate it.
• Put it in the metal led fitting and put some hot glue over it so it stays in place and connect it to ground and pin 13.
• change the sketch to your liking and upload it to the arduino. Run DCS and DCS bios to do a functions test.
• Secure wiring, connectors etc with hot glue.
• Use a soldering iron set at around 210 degrees Celsius to melt in the inserts into the box.
• click the arduino into place into the housing, put the faceplate on and use 4 screws to close it up.
• Glue flap knob on the switch with hot glue and when that's set use some CA glue to glue the flap guide into place making sure the flap switch can move freely.
• BRRRRRRRRRRRT

known issues: knobs are a bit tight on the potentiometers. Potentiometers needed a reces in the faceplate, have added this but not tested.

TODO: Add a way to index the flap guid or screw it in.

Changelog: 7/21/2024 Uploaded initial files.

Good youtube channels that go into simpit building and dcs bios.

• Warthog project. https://youtube.com/@thewarthogproject?si=Pt-aWMGJqZc-53wF
• A Hornet's Nest. https://youtube.com/@ahornetsnest?si=wt4CWorj3TBt38j5

DISCLAIMER: This does not show up as a generic joystick/HID-device and is specifically made to be used with DCS bios to interface between DCS and the buttonbox. The added sketch will only work with the A10C warthog and A10C II Tank killer modules in DCS. Ofcourse you can remap these within the sketch to other modules if you wish, it is purely an example of the possibilities.