It is a rework of Huseyin teacher's printer on youtube, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NjgCcGldrV4&list=PLpDJwySUb_0TinaK0is5QuNWTSbTMSb68

Frame is built from AL profiles 30x30mm (slot width 8mm). Profile lengths: Top : 355mm (1x) Y: 310mm (2x) Z: 360mm (2x) for about 200mm working height. For linear bearings you can use 12 pcs LM8UU or 6 pcs LM8LUU. I used makerBot endstops, you can use shortest cable ties to fix them to 8mm rods, do not forget to use them with endstop isolator stl not to make short circuit. You need 16 pcs 625zz bearings totally, for 4 belt idlers use 2 of them for each idler, use 4 pcs for filament spool holder, 4 pcs is for z m5 lead screws.. So you need to adjust steps/mm to 4.000 for z axis on lcd menu, if your microstep is 1/16. You need 5 pcs GT2 16 teeth gears. 3 of them used on top side to move z axis with only one motor. Closed GT2 belt lenght is 784mm. Lcd and ramps holder parts are from my old lovely reprap printer Funbot, https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:560343 I cut 8mm mdf plates with my cnc router, called big brother, https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5195883 You can make them cut from a plexiglass (8mm) or thinner metal sheet..

If you buy a magnetic buildtak, you do not need a heated bed for pla printing. Bottom sheet is a magnet and sticks on bed glass ( ikea 20x20cm mirror) . Top sheet (flex plate) can bend, allowing parts to be popped off the bed without using a scraper. I bought a non-steel type, and I am very happy to get rid of 3M blue tape. But I used a MK2B heated bed in any case, winter is coming.

Watch adios3D printer on youtube, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hSUxN-I7qvo You can see all details in my blog https://erolcum.blogspot.com/ you can translate my page to your language easily by using widget on left side.