it's an antweight all 3d printed combat robot ringspinner... I was looking at Kylellrc's Mr.Roomba but since they use a lot more metal than in our ruleset, I went back to the drawing board and designed my own using the gross dimensions of their bot... I decided to use v-wheels since they are self-centering.

This thing is stupidly dangerous. Do not run it without taking a lot of precautions.

It is designed to operate with:

a 2206 2300kv brushless outrunner drone motor with a 20a speed controller 2 N20-500 gear motors for steering. a 2s-3s tank esc for the drive motors. a 2s or 3s battery I am using a 3s 450mah (45c). a radio and receiver... I am using a 16 channel stick controller with a 4 channel micro receiver... (Tanaris Q X7 with a jumper J4in1-EN module, and an AFHDS (flysky) FS2A receiver)

Post ERRF update.

I found a few flaws in the design, I am in the process of iterating the chassis now to fix them... I am correcting the power switch design and adding a weapon safety.

Here is a video of testing the bot at ERRF2019.

https://youtu.be/NLjpnDdf5gw

I will update and link to a build article and more videos later...

2/8/2020 updates

for the latest combat, I made some pretty drastic changes to reflect some rule changes, drop some weight, etc.

I designed a --working-- screw terminal switch... I cut some brass prongs off of a lamp plug replacement that I picked up at a local hardware store... then I used a drill/tap bit in m3 .05 to make m3 threads and soldered wires to the brass pieces... saved a lot of weight there... FingerTech sells a switch like this, but I made mine for less than a dollar.

I switched from the v wheels to 21.5mm wheels with a single 625 bearing in them... (the kind they use on the slots of not-v 2020 extrusion... like on the Chinese laser cutters and cheaper delta printers. I will update my BOM to reflect.

I also switched to Duramic PLA+ and it made a major performance improvement. Here is a link to the video of a mass melee with Squirrelicane…

I will have to make some more changes, move the motors so I can increase the diameter of the wheels to make the bot more controllable... and probably drop to n20 6v 300 motors, and add a heatsink below the 2206 motor... though washers mostly fixed the problem... but the motor gets hot enough to melt the chassis a bit which binds it up. My rings are designed for a CCW motor, but you can easily mirror them (both) for a CW motor.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P65c6uA1w5M

July 18th 2020 update

Here is the current chassis and lid... I shrunk the height by 2mm so I could get more tire engagement... I also added some risers for under the motor, though I would suggest adding washers on top of those for more chassis heat protection. I have also switched the chassis, lid, and motor gear to PETG. I am going to add more ring designs this week

I added an experimental ring design.

August 27th

Version 7 uploaded. Angled ring was fail. Added cooling vents for the weapon motor.... considering running a 25mm fan to cool it. Added a new larger toothed weapon ring... dropped battery to 3s 300mah removed the split ring design, the pressed on ring works well and it allows more perimeters. I am using m3 melt-in inserts in for the lid... (short 4mm long ones) so I can use shorter screws and it will be easier to change batteries. smaller 3s battery also leaves more room for wires.

Trying two new receiver drive esc combos, but I am waiting for them to arrive from UK and China...

8/28 Melt-in insert holes are too tight on the chassis... so I fixed it and I also uploaded a self-thread version (fight is Saturday... if I can't get it to work by today, I am going old school)

also the lid is a little too large... replaced

thirdly, I uploaded an experimental lid that you can print (maybe) in two colors with one extruder.... first you print graphic.stl, it will just take a few minutes... then before it cools down (keep the heaters on) print lid for 2 colors... when you print it, turn on a z-hop of at least .5mm.... --Theoretically, it will print over the .4 thick layer... they should line up if you just drop them in your slicer... the graphic has the same profile as the lid, but it is only extruded .01mm so it won't slice, but it counts for placing the models.... (Or so I am told)

I will probably update this project later today with the outcome of my test... :)