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Descrição
[2019-08-30 22:00-5 Updated from an earlier version]
Overview
This is a somewhat generalized lighting-bracket system consisting of 10mm square bars connected by various kinds of joints and fixtures. The joints and fixtures include the following:
- a standard 270 degree Radial Joint set with a male end, and a female end
- a Universal Joint with a 360 degree rotating "cap" and a female radial end
- a Ball Socket End that can join a 10mm rod to a 20mm ball making a joint
- an example Light Fixture with a 20mm ball socket, with a G4 socket for an LED
- bars of various lengths
- a ball end
- a 12mm screw/bolt (with small or large handle) that fits in the female radial ends
- a Large Base Mount with 38mm threads
- a Smaller Base Mount with 38mm threads
- a Desk Base for the Base Mount
- a Table clamp for the Base mount
- a mounting bracket and Rotary Joint for my Prusa MK3s printer.
The idea is that you can create things easily with 10x10mm rods as connectors and "plug them together" to design your own lighting system.
In my three examples I have built
- a set of two 12V lights, with a dimmer, with 4 joints each for the Prusa printer
- a 12V clamp on desk lamp with 4 joints and a switch
- a 12V desktop magnifying lamp with 3 joints
General
The system is based on a 10x10 mm square rod. You can easily design these yourself, or you can use one of the pre-created STL files. The pre-created bars come in various lengths, and can be solid, or have trusses, and/or dowel ends that can insert into balls.
- 90, 105, and 220mm without trusses or dowels
- 175mm and 200mm with trusses
- 90mm with a dowel.
There are tolerances (0.2mm) built into the end pieces to allow enough space to connect the bars to the end pieces by press fitting them. It is not my goal to make a system that everyone can use. This was created for my own personal use, and I found that 0.2mm generally works. Sometimes I have to take more care to clean out the square sockets, and occasionally I have to sand down the ends of rods slightly so that they will fit in the square sockets.
You can also glue the bars into the end pieces if it turns out that on your printer they are not tight enough to press fit together or you decide that you want to make the configuration permanent.
Ball Ends
The bars with ball ends have an 8mm diameter dowel that extends from the square bar 18mm to go to the middle of a 20mm ball and leave 8mm of space between the ball and the bar. One again easy to design: Create a square 10x10m and extrude it to your desired length. Create a sketch on one end of it with an 8mm circle and extrude it 18mm. At the center of the end of the dowel, create a 20mm ball, join all the bodies, export the STL and print it.
When I started, I created ball ends directly on 10mm bars like that with integral 8mm dowels and 20mm balls. They were hard to print and not generalized. So then I tried switching to a bar with an 8x18mm dowel, and a ball that I glue onto the end of the dowel. Then finally I designed a "cap end with ball" that just slips over s standard 10mm bar, like all the other fittings.
So you have three choices for how to make bars with balls on the end ...
- design your own integral bars with balls on the end
- print the "90mm bar with dowel" and the "ball end" and glue them together
- print the "cap end with ball" and use it generically with any of the 10mm bars
Supports
I have tried to make as many pieces print without supports as possible. However, the following pieces need supports.
- balls and bars with dowel ends
- the light fixture
- the screws
In general it is up to you to determine the correct orientation when you slice the STL files into gcode. I also have had to include brims on many of the small parts so that they adhere well enough to complete printing.
You may also want to combine multiple STL files into one gcode file. For example, you may want to create a "radial set gcode file" that prints a male radial base, male radial end, female radial base, and the two female radial ends in one print session.
Infill
Likewise, the amount of infill, the number of perimeters, the infill and surface patterns are all up to you to choose. If the part is small I generally use 100% rectilinear infill in SlicrPE. I also print the massive Large Base Mount cylinder at 100% infill. It's a lot of plastic, but the weight and rigidity make the base less wobbly.
The desk clamp can be printed at 20% infill as long as you use a reasonable number of perimeters and surface layers.
Assembly (Glue)
There are several pieces that I preferred to print and super-glue than to try to print them in a single piece with messy supports. Notably the male and female radial ends get printed as pieces and are glued together.
Assembly (Screws)
In general ball joints are weak and have a difficult time with 90% angles. They are only typically used as the last joint or two so that they don't have to support a lot of weight. Even so, they require metal screws and bolts for sufficient force.
I am not going to spec out the nuts and bolts. I use whatever I can find in my junk drawer that fits. The size is not critical.
Other assembly details (TPU and rubber washers)
I print everything in PLA except the light fixture which I print in ABS as it has to withstand a bit of the temperature from the LED bulb.
I find that these kinds of joints tend to be "sticky" and not "smooth" with just plastic-to-plastic interfaces. Therefore I also print some TPU washers (0.5mm thick) and allowed 1mm of space in the arms for the TPU washers. Using the TPU washers makes the joints re-act much more smoothly.
On the "Ball Socket End Piece" you''' notice a space for a pair of washers. I had some 16mm rubber washers which, when pressed into the sockets during assembly, really helped too.
OBJECT DETAILS
This section contains notes on individual objects:
CLAMP TOP ASSEMBLY
I print the "clamp_top_for_large_base_mount" upside down and print a "clamp_top_large_base_mount_plug" that I screw and glue into it to provide a base for the "large base mount". That way there are no supports, or bridges, needed to print the clamp top.
Then the "base mount sleeve" just screws into that (not glued).
BASE MOUNTS
Both base mounts require that you put (a) the cap, and (b) the thrust washer on the stem before you (c) glue or screw the bases on. There is room in the "Small Base Mount" for a 3x20mm hex head bolt (from the top down) to a nut in the base part, but for the "Large Base Mount" I just assemble the pieces before I glue the "left" and "right" arms into the base mount.
LIGHT FIXTURE
The light fixture is printed out of ABS, facing down, with lots of supports to clean up, but it comes out ok for me. I got a bunch (like 10 for $1) of G4 ceramic sockets with leads on ebay. The ceramic sockets provide almost complete thermal insualtion from the LED bulbs, which can get quite hot. Otherwise, there is about 2mm of plastic in contact with the edge of the LED bulb.
MAKE SURE IT DOESN'T GET TOO HOT !!!
In practice, so far, they are working fine with my 12V LEDs run from regulated power supplies. Not so sure how they will fare when I hook them up directly to the boat batteries, which go from about 12.25V all the way up to 14.5V when charging ... the LED bulbs themselves, unregulated burn out quite often on the boat and get really hot!
PRUSA BRACKET and BOX
I didn't show it, but there's STL for a box that contains a dimmer that attaches to the side up-bar of the Prusa.
The Prusa Bracket itself is in two pieces and is a bit awkward to attach with a 3x20mm bolt and nut. IT IS NOT JUST A SNAP ON. The screw should bring the bracket tight onto the bar so that it doesn't come off if you vigorously move the lights.
SCREWS
I print the screws with the threads up and supports, and plenty of brim. The screw with the larger handle works better in practice.
Finally
There are some Fusion 360 files in a zip if you want em'.
This is my first Thingiverse posting, and I've only been 3D printing for a month or so, so please forgive any glitches, hiccups, or serious problems.
No guarantees, but I hope you find this useful.
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