Caution: this thing contains small parts that may break off and become a choking hazard for small children. The train is based on a train called Lukee which is run by volunteers close to where we live by the Red Cliffs Historical Steam Railway. Pictures of the actual train can be found on their website. If you travel to Mildura Australia this little family friendly railway is worth a visit, just check their website for running times The aims of this model are to be an approximate model that works on a Duplo compatible platform. Quite a few scale liberties have been taken especially in the undercarriage and firebox (also the real train does not have spoked wheels or buffers). The reasons for this are to make it compatible with Duplo tracks which are significantly wider and have tighter corners than the real train has, and to give the firebox an opening big enough to easily place items in. Some key problems this model still has are; There is a small amount of interference with the traction rods and the Duplo tracks when the train goes over Duplo points. I can’t figure out a way to easily fix this without impacting to significantly on the strength of the structure. The binding is minimal, and the train does not tend to derail (the wheels just stop turning for a few rotations as it crosses the points), the kids don’t notice it, so I can live with it. The joins between the blocks are somewhat temperamental and can be painful to print right. Print speed, ambient temperature, hot end temperature, orientation and cooling fan use all can contribute to blocks being too tight or too loose to push together well. Some experimentation may be necessary with some of the smaller parts to see what settings work for your printer for a “tight” but not “too tight” fit If anyone wants to fiddle with it to improve it just use the freecad document provided Some basic parameters from my printer, yours may differ for best results Filament: PETG Nozzle: 0.6mm Layer height: first layer 0.4mm, other layers 0.2mm Print speed: first layer 10mm/sec, other layers 20-40mm/sec Temp: hot end 235, build plate 70. Wall thickness: 1.5mm

PARTS NEEDED 3mm bolts: lengths 2x8mm, 2x15mm, 1x20mm (or just 5x20mm and cut to size) 1.75mm filament off cuts Glue (epoxy is what I have used) 2x 3mm Allen keys with at least a 46mm straight part, and something to cut them 4x O rings that will stretch to 20mm diameter to help wheels grip (optional) 3mm tap bit 3mm drill 2mm drill

BUILDING INDIVIDUAL PARTS Parts best printed in orientation provided L = Left, R = Right

WHEEL SET

1. Print: 2x L wheel, 2x R wheel (L and R wheels are a little different so keep track of which side they belong to), 1x base, 4x buffers, 2xTR1 and 2xTR2. None of these parts need any additional supports or brim
2. Take the “base” and trim off the round bits I have placed the corners of the model to help first layer adhesion and the supports under the female coupling
3. Glue “buffers” into the holes provided at the front and back of the “base”. How far you push them in is up to you, I think they look better a bit further out but if they stick out too far they limit the turning circle of the train.
4. Drill out the wheel axel holes in the “base” with a 3 mm drill till the 3mm Allen keys turn easily inside the hole.
5. Drill out all holes in both TR1 and TR2 with 3mm drill
6. Take Allen Keys and cut to length (long enough to go through 2 wheels and the “base” with 1-2mm play).
7. Round edges of the cut Allen keys a little.
8. Put O rings around wheels in the grooves provided (if you want to)
9. Take both R wheels and glue Allen keys in to holes provided.
10. Using Allen keys as axels slide them into the holes in the “base”
11. Test fit square bit of TR2 into the “cylinder” slot on the “base” this should be a very loose sloppy fit on both sides. Scrape / sand edges as needed till it is.
12. Using 3mm tap, cut a 3mm thread just a little into the outside of the offset hole in both R wheels.
13. Slide one TR2 into the “cylinder” slot in the R side of the “base”
14. Bolt TR2 and back of TR1 onto the back wheel (using M3x15mm bolt) and front of TR1 onto the front wheel (using M3x8mm bolt). If you have done this right the bolts should be quite tight to get in (as you have only tapped the start of the bolt hole), this will help hold the bolt in place. Do not over tighten bolts, everything (rods and wheels) should still move easily and freely. If the bolts keep wanting to undo a small amount of locktite thread locker will keep them in place.
15. Glue L wheels on the other side of the Allen keys. However take care not to get glue everywhere and glue the L wheels to the “base” accidently, spinning the wheels occasionally while the glue sets can help here. Also make sure that the offset holes are 90 degrees out of phase from the R to the L side, so if they are in the 3 o’clock position on the R, have both holes on the 6 o’clock positon on the L. The alignment of the Allen key slot being slightly different from the R to the L wheels should make this job simpler to get right.
16. Screw in TR1 and TR2 on the L side in the same way as you did it on the R in step 13.
17. The “Wheel set” is now done! BOILER
18. Print “boiler lid” flat and boiler main” standing up on build plate. Again no supports or brim needed, but do find the blower fan helps.
19. Print “steam dome” “sand dome” and chimney upright, but these will need a brim and the blower fan
20. Trim parts as needed
21. Put “boiler lid” onto the end of “boiler main”
22. Slide a bit of 1.75mm filament through the hinge holes (drill out with 2mm drill if needed)
23. Cut filament so 1-2mm sicks out each side of hinge
24. Ensure the boiler door opens and closes well, there should be a little “click” at the end of the movement to hold it closed.
25. Use something hot to melt and squish the ends of the filament flat to hold it in place
26. Use small lengths of filament (or copper wire) inserted into the top of the “steam dome” as whistles. Drill out holes provided with 2mm drill if required. Glue into place
27. Glue “steam dome”, “sand dome” and chimney onto the top of the boiler
28. “boiler” is now done CABIN
29. Print “cabin”,, “fire box”, “fire box door” and “reverse lever”. No supports or brim required.
30. Print “brake lever” and “roof” use brim and supports.
31. Trim brim and supports from “brake lever” and “roof”. Drill out hole in lever with 3mm drill
32. With M3 tap cut some thread into the small vertical hole in the cabin, the large hole in the top of the cabin is to help provide easy access
33. Put M3x20 bolt through brake lever and screw into newly threaded hole. Use thread locker or glue if bolt too loose, however brake handle should turn freely
34. Put “reverse lever” in place. Slide some filament through the holes to keep it there. Drill out with 2mm drill if required. Cut filament so 1-2mm protruding each side. Use something hot to melt the protruding ends flat.
35. Glue “roof” onto “cabin”
36. Put small bits of preferably clear filament into the holes on the back of the “fire box lid” melt protruding ends to keep in place.
37. Place “fire box lid” onto back of “fire box” and assemble filament hinge pin as on steps 5-8 of “BOILER”
38. Place complete fire box into cabin. Glue or use hole at front of cabin to screw into place with a small self-tapping screw
    WATER TANKS
39. Print “water tank L” and “water tank R” no extra supports needed but can benefit from a brim to help first layer adhesion
40. Remove supports from center parts of water tank
41. Print water tank lid no brim or supports required
42. Attach water tank lid to water tank R using filament hinge as on steps 5-8 of “BOILER”
43. Whilst not needed, and it detracts from final assembly, I find the whole thing works much better if you glue the water tanks to the cabin OTHER PARTS
44. Print 8x4 and 3x2 block as well as "wood box", no supports or brim needed

All done!! paint (PETG will require some sort of plastic primer before painting) Assemble parts Duplo style