Spectacularly useless replica of the wonderful SNES controller/joypad. Electronics and connector not included. Rubbers quickly modeled and not printed/tested. Perhaps these could be made with flexible filament. Looking forward to also replicating the PCB once my printer can mill those.. ;-)

Because retro gaming is best done on original hardware of course, it might be interesting to combine this with a SNES emulator.. Tested for now on a real SNES, and everything works well.

Additionally serves as a nice construction puzzle for kids.. ;-)

See also my previous controller model, for the Suzo International Arcade Stick:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:30198
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:30008

update: Also recreated the electronics, based on schematics provided by Raphael Assenat:

http://www.raphnet.net/electronique/arcade_control/arcade_control_en.php

the PCB was milled on a PCB Cyclone, built with my 3d printer:

https://github.com/CarlosGS/Cyclone-PCB-Factory

the hardest part of the electronics was to figure out that for a PAL SNES, you need one or more pull-up resistors on the incoming latch/data/clock lines, with quite specific values; for me, a 467 ohm resistor on just the clock line did the trick. if this is wrong, typically just the B button will work. note that I used 10kohm resistors for the buttons.

I also put a bit of aluminum tape under the select and start buttons, or they wouldn't work (probably solvable my moving away from the 10kohm resistors?). after this, all buttons work well.

I hope to publish one more update before too long, with the flexible rubbers, connector and the small PCB's for the L & R button.

update 2: added flexible parts as .stl, but please note that they are untested and probably won't fit correctly.

1. print individual parts with support. kisslicer does a great job of slicing them. model is made/optimized for an extrusion width of 0.5.
2. use a small drill (I used 1.4mm) to manually improve the screw- and pinholes if necessary.
3. possibly sand the PCB supports a bit if things are too tight.
4. add rubber parts, connector and PCB from original pad (for now!)
5. optionally polish with grits of about 80, 150, 300, 600, 1000, 2000, 5000, then plastic polish and a bit of silicone spray. and/or use steelwool for a matte finish (not very satisfied about my finish - the top infill was not completely solid)
6. finish super mario world without letting go of the 'run' button :-)