I've been wanting to get rid of the external controller box on my Tronxy printers since I built the first one. I now have four of the X3A printers and the controller box takes up too much room and moving the printers with it attached is not fun either. No reset button access and the power switch is difficult to reach if you place the controller under the printer not to mention the SD card........

The graphic of the whole design needs up dating once I get everything completed. What has changed is the power supply (both the 20 or the 30A) has moved to the outside of the frame due to interference of Z axis stepper mounting bracket. The Melzi controller box now hangs lower so that the separate mounting brackets could be eliminated. The cable box (if used) will need to move to the back of the printer. The Melzi controller is soooooo long! The controller case takes up most of the right side of the printer.

My goal was to be able to re-use as much of the controller box parts as possible. When I designed the Ultimate Tronxy Cooler (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2063696) , I replaced the 40mm stock hot end cooling fan with a 30mm and two 25mm filament cooling fans and re-purposed the 40mm fan to cool the Melzi board (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2031783). The 40mm fan is now mounted to the Melzi box top. You have a choice of a plain top or the Alabama 'A' top (ROLL TIDE!). I printed the Melzi box tops in clear PLA so that the LEDs can shine through. I also used a piece of red 3mm filament as the RESET button extension (1.75mm will work too). What I did was set the filament on the heat bed (70°C) and let it stay while printing. After about 30 minutes the filament will be perfectly straight. I then flattened one end of the filament with a hot soldering iron (~150°C works well). This it the end that will touch the reset button. I then placed the piece of filament in the top from the inside and then placed the top in position on the Melzi box and pushed the filament until it was touching the reset button but was not pressing on it. I then cut off the filament leaving about 4mm extending beyond the top surface. Next I used my soldering iron to flatten that end of the filament. Now the reset extension is captive to the top and simply floats until you push it to reset the controller. FINALLY, access to the reset button!

The kit will consist of the following:

1. 100mm Legs DONE!

2. 20 amp AND 30 amp power supply mounts with integrated power switch DONE!

3. Display controller mount (works with the monorail Y axis or the linear bearing/rod upgrade) DONE!

4. Melzi controller box with a RESET button! Two fan covers, one plain and one Alabama 'A' Controller is DONE!

5. A box for hiding all of the cables that would otherwise get in the way. DONE!

Legs are DONE!. They must be printed upside down with support. The hole in the bottom of the leg will allow a leveling screw and pad to come later. The original acrylic "foot" must be removed. Reuse the "foot" screws and boat nuts to attach. It is best to install the bottom screws first and then slide the side boat nuts in from the sides to attach the top portion. These are very strong and support the frame very well.

The two part Melzi controller board box has been re-designed so that no brackets are needed. The two halves are joined using a "finger joint" with super glue. I strongly suggest that you test fit the two parts together and then mount your Melzi board and adjust the box length to fit. Once the board has been mounted the total length is set and you can super glue the two parts together. The reason that you need to do it this way is because these boards vary somewhat in the hole spacing. YMMV

Cable box has been designed. This is optional to hide all of the extra length wiring that is not needed. I figured I could print this in about the same amount of time it would take to shorten all of the wiring.

The power supply mounts are DONE! The power supply has been moved to the outside of the left side of the frame. It does not extend past the X axis motor so very little if any desk top room is lost. Just added the 30A power supply version (which is a good upgrade for the X3).

Display case is DONE! The display board fits perfectly and works with both the Y axis monorail and linear bearing mod (Kencam https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2185364).

All of the PCBs attach with "servo" self threading screws as well as the box tops. Attachment to the frame is with 4x10mm screws and 4mm "boat" nuts.

Design is DONE! All parts have been printed at least twice for checking fitment. Completed pictures coming soon (printers are busy printing another project).

This has been a fun but challenging project.

Silver printer is done, well almost.....I ran out of wire for the filament cooling fans (more is on the way) but I wanted to show what the finished project looks like. Next will be the black printer and then the red one and then the yellow one will be last. I have ALL of the parts printer for all four of my printers.

Here are some of the other designs I have done for the X3: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2650465 https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2061064