###Parametric Interlocking Mini Drawers### Bin style drawers for components, etc. Now, due to several requests, with 3 compartments, 2 compartments and a single large compartment!

https://youtu.be/m1aATJ88s0A

Dimensions (75mm by 32mm by 120mm) but you can set the dimensions to anything you like (provided you just install Fusion 360 and punch the numbers in).

If you come across a bug in the resizing feature, let me know and I'll fix it. Always download the latest files as I will update them with improvements.

Inspiration I wanted to print custom drawers for my electronic components. The interlocking idea came from http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1889761, but they were too small for most components and I imagined they would be very hard to put together if your printer didn't print to the exact size needed. I had also been learning about parametric design in Fusion 360. I decided to do my own design from scratch (this new design has only been printed and tweaked few times). The draw (ho ho ho) with this design is that it is fully parametric - the drawers can be printed to the dimensions you want, so if you need drawers that are long thin and high with extra thick walls, you can make them long thin and high with extra thick walls; it's just a matter of punching the numbers into Fusion - see below.

I have also created a tolerance setting to accommodate less accurate printers and shrinkage. All the interlocking clips and parts that need to fit together and slide are influenced by the Tolerance setting: you can make them tighter (lowering this value) or looser (increasing this value).

Parameter variables you can change in Fusion 360 To create your own custom size STL files download Fusion 360 and open my F3d file. Then click Modify > Change Parameters (see picture). When done, right click > save as STL.

Parameters that can be set:

• HousingHeight - external height of housing (excluding little clip at top)
• HousingWidth - external width
• HousingDepth - from front to back
• HousingWallThickness 2.4mm by default gives nice strong housings (haven't tried thinner)
• Label/Handle Width - this sets the width of the label holder and handle
• Label Height - sets the height of the holder for labels (not they Y position)
• Tolerance - I recommend 0.3mm to start with. If it's too tight, try increasing this value to 0.4mm; if it's too loose then reduce it to 0.2mm. In practical 3D printing, a 1cm circle doesn't always go into a 1cm hole - that's where this value comes in very handy. (Keep in mind a horizontal margin of error is effectively halved if it is applied to two surfaces that meet at 45 degrees so you may even want to start at 0.4mm for this value).
• Drawer dimensions - these are created automatically to suit the dimensions you chose for the housing. The reason for setting the overall dimensions first is that most people with smaller printers want to print the biggest drawers their printer can fit.

Printing with ABS ABS stands for Absolute Bastard Shrinkage. ABS wants to shrink when it cools and this makes it curl up off the bed - thus printing large flat surfaces like in this design with ABS means pain and suffering..It took me some time to print these properly with ABS. My printer is not an ABS printer by design but it can be done adequately with a bit of science, dedication and patience.

Science Not rocket science, but ABS shrinking occurs from 80C to 20C. Ideally, you need to print the whole part in an air temperature of 80C degrees! Or as close to that as you can get.

Best settings and strategy for ABS: Bed: 80C Nozzle: 245C Enclosure with minimum heat loss. Metal enclosures lose heat through conduction, enclosures with air gaps are not much chop either. I have achieved best results by sitting the printer on a carpet, with a small table on top, and a thick doona/quilt covering everything to the ground. This gives me an printing air temperature of 40C degrees (in a room that is at 20C degrees). You will also benefit from keeping the print bed heater on for the maximum duty cycle - this means no insulation on the print bed - we want the heat to be lost to the internal air so the heater stays on and the air warms (people who insulate the bed are preventing this).

No air blowing on the part - for me this meant taping up my printers fan outlet to block the air.

Printing with PLA PLA is generally better for printing with minimum warpage and is probably easier. So try PLA an let me know how you go. I have not tried printing these with PLA yet.

Remixing You are welcome to remix this if you give credit where it is due. As usual, I have included my original design work F360 files so you don't have to hack your modifications. You can edit all the sketches and design features as you see fit.