The top cover will need to be downloaded from the original model.

I mainly redesigned this case to allow me to adjust the brightness of the LEDs with a button on the side and provide some mounting options for the arduino nano.

PCB Design and Assembly:

I have a limited quantity of PCBs available for purchase at a very reasonable price.  gadgetforge3d.etsy.com

For soldering, I designed it so that all the surface mount components are on one side. This is ideal for using a hot plate and solder paste. The components should automatically align themselves with this method. Just make sure not to use too much solder paste so the components sit flat and centered on their respective pads.

Potentiometers

I used the top plate as a guide to ensure all the components were aligned when soldering the potentiometers as each varied slightly. These were soldered by hand with a soldering iron.

Connectors

I opted to use JST XH connectors. Direct soldering wires to pads or other connectors with identical pin spacing could also work. Silk-screening on the board should be fairly self explanatory. I did upload the Kicad files so you can look at the schematic for more detail. These are also hand-soldered.

Components for the PCB are:

• 5x 100nF 0805 capacitors
• 1x 10K 0805 resistor (R7 on PCB)
• 1x 220 ohm 0805 resistor (R1 on PCB)
• 5x WS2812B RGB LEDs 
• 5x B10K Potentiometer
• Connectors of your choosing (JST XH are what I used)

Button - I used a standard 5x5x3 button and soldered wires onto the pins of the button with a matching JST XH connector on the other side to plug into the PCB

Wiring - you will need enough wire to make the connections between the PCB, arduino, and button. I used ribbon cable with JST-XH terminals to make the connections.

Code - Code is written for an arduino nano and will gradually cycle the LEDs colors. Verify the pins you use match the code or change the code to match. The LEDs need to be on a PWM supported pin for communication. Leds are also set to the ‘medium’ brightness by default.