Meet Jeb_, a 1:10 model made to perfectly fit all necessary components in a sleek way !

I wanted to recreate a real version of the know easter egg in minecraft, where renaming a sheep Jeb_ makes it go in a rainbow cycle mod.

Result in video :

[https://www.veed.io/view/4a304751-b8c8-4970-b72b-fcea88ebe975?panel=share](https://www.veed.io/view/4a304751-b8c8-4970-b72b-fcea88ebe975?panel=share)

[https://github.com/CybrHawk/Jeb_](https://github.com/CybrHawk/Jeb_)

Parts List :

For this you'll need :

• A small arduino board for the Potentiometer version (V3 on Jeb_ GitHub)
• 2 screw type potentiometers (example Amazon)

OR

• An ESP32/ESP8266 board for the WiFi version (WLED)

• Clear PETG filament (recommended)
• 1 ON/OFF switch
• 1 buck booster converter (example Amazon)
• 1 LiPo Charge & DISCHARGE module (Amazon)
• Cables
• Small capacitor
• WS2812b or similar LED strip. Neopixel works too, but more expensive ! ~30 LEDs in my example
• 4x 18650 Lithium Batteries

Wiring and assembling :

The four 18650 batteries are specifically made to fit perfectly in each leg. But beforce placing them, be sure to have the bottom side of them already soldered with a wire. Also don't forget to all the LEDs for the legs before placing the battery. The cables should have more than enough space in the corners.

Quality (yes paint, I dared) Wiring diagram :

I highly recommend soldering a decoupling capacitor to the power pins of the Arduino/ESP32/ESP8266 to limit the noise generated by the LEDs when changing colors. The noise can truly mess with the normal operation of your microcontroller !

It's totally up to you to to choose the software for this project, be it locally with potentiometer or with WLED. I tried both, and both works ! As for the pins to which solder LEDs and/or potentiometer check or modify the code to your liking.

The number of LEDs you put inside are also totally up to you. Just know that already with 30 LEDs it's bright enough, if being reasonable isn't you goal, go on and squeeze 5meters of LEDs strips inside it :)

The rest of the assembly is quite straightforward, the components are all meant to go in the middle part for the main body. The head can be assembled to the top cover, and the top cover itself with the body.

Before closing and when everything is in place, adjust the buck booster potentiometer screw so you have 5V as output (between OUT+ and OUT-).

I would also recommend testing everything is working before sealing everything.

And remember, with transparent PETG, the slower you print, the clearer the end result will be !

As you can see I didn't print it that slowly, but it's transparent enough to see the LEDs without revealing too much of the internal components.

Hope you enjoy this project. I had a lot of fun designing everything :)

If you have any questions feel free to contact me or comment here !