Purpose

The parts in this printable were used to modify a pair of welding goggles to make a cheap, simple set of Ecto Goggles.  They are not screen accurate and are not intended to be.  Since the Ghostbusters use modified surplus goggles, I figured that their equipment won't always match.

My goggles come as part of a two pack of Chicago Electric welding goggles (SKU 63355) from Harbor Freight.  I used the pair that have flip up lenses, shown in the photo to the right.

Modification

Each of the eyes in this style of goggles has a clear plastic lens in the main body and a tinted plastic lens in the flip up section.  Each lens is held in place with a plastic retainer on the inside.  You can see two nubs 180 degrees apart on each retainer, which are there to help you unscrew the retainer.

Unscrew the retainers in the flip-up section and remove the tinted lenses.  In their place, insert the barrels from this Printable.  The shorter, thicker barrel should go over the wearer's left eye.  

Note: the printed barrels are able to vibrate and even rotate in their housings.  If you wish to prevent this, you'll either need to glue them to the housing, or shim them with something before putting the retainer back in.  I did neither.

There are two nubs on each barrel with holes in them.  You can put shortish M3 screws into these as “levers” if you wish.

Note: My barrels were printed on a resin printer, but an FDM printer will probably work just as well.  I have included files for printing on either type, and the only difference is that the Resin version have threads modeled into those nubs I just mentioned.  The regular version of the files just has holes.  You might need to drill and/or tap the holes to get enough clearance if the screws don't work right away, and possibly glue the screws in place if they are too loose.

Paint

I painted the barrels with Rustoleum Bright Chrome metallic finish, and then painted black over this (so I could mask edges of the black until it was dried, then remove those areas exposing the silver “wear”).  However, if you do the same thing, you may wish to lightly sand the areas that will be painted black.  Otherwise the chrome finish will cause the black paint to misbehave.  Apply it in very thin layers with lots of drying time if this happens.

The vinyl frame of these goggles starts out with a blue color and tends to resist paint.  It probably couldn't hurt to try scuffing up the vinyl beforehand with brillo or something similar.  I used a can of Rustoleum olive self-etching automotive primer (Model # 249322, Home Depot SKU 500563).

To paint the frame, it's best to remove the elastic strap, the plastic face plate, and the four plastic vents first.  For the vents, I believe you can just stretch the vinyl holes around the lip on the inside of the goggles and pull the plastic part out.

The face plate is attached to the frame with small clips and retaining snaps on either side on the bottom of the frame.  Some versions of the goggles might only have the snaps.  Unsnap the snap on one side, then (if yours has clips) tug the outer frame toward the center and up (away from the faceplate) to loosen the clip.  

You should then be able to open the frame and separate it from the face plate.  You may wish to repeat on the other side to separate the nose piece entirely, just to be sure it gets painted everywhere.

I gave the paint a long time to cure before I reassembled the goggles.  I don't recall how long, but I believe it was at least a week, probably a few.  The primer will scratch off if something gouges at it, but normal wear and tear is hard to notice from any distance.  My goggles still seem fine after almost three years.