David Watts BCD Crap Clock Case

A 3D printed case for David Watts' BCD Crap Clock. If you have bought the kit from David, and want a case to protect it - feel free to print this out!

It consists of a front bezel and a back part that snap together. The back has different versions depending on what you want to do with it - a full back with space for the power header pins, a backless back so you can see all of it, and a USB version which has a cut out for a USB micro break out board which you can hook up to the power with some wires. The break out boards can be found here: [http://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/AAeM3nm](http://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/AAeM3nm).

An intro video about me making it for David as part of a swap for the kit: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vb7mlkBEF_A](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vb7mlkBEF_A)

And a video of me making the actual clock! [https://youtu.be/CPBEHg7X2co](https://youtu.be/CPBEHg7X2co)

I have also included the STEP file and a high and medium resolution STL file of the finished BCD Crap Clock kit - so if you want to build a case yourself, you have the finished kit in 3D format to work around in your 3D editor.

Print Settings

Printer:

P3 Steel Toolson Edition

Rafts:

Supports:

Yes

Resolution:

no more than 0.2mm

Infill:

10-50%

Notes:

Best to print at 0.15mm or less to get the quality of the snap fittings. Print with the front bezel front on the bed, and the back case front on the bed.

If printing this way you need supports for the PCB standoff parts at the top and bottom of the back parts. The front bezel needs NO supports.

I used a custom support mid span of the back sections to help with bridging. It is inside the case, so doesn't have to look pretty.

You need a well calibrated machine for this, as the tolerances are tight!! It prints and it fits, if your print does not fit, it is NOT the design, it's your printer lol!!

Post-Printing

Fitting the Case

To fit the case, In my infinite wisdom I guessed a measurement - so the front bezel snaps are not centred (tssk!!) so there is a top and bottom, which is now shown with a little printed arrow - pointing to the top!

I have found that fitting the clock PCB into the front bezel it should fit snug between the snaps that stick up (if you are facing it down). And then snap either side into the back part. It should give a good snap shut.

To open it, run a knife along one side with a snap fitting and ease it out. There are little chamfers which should help ease the snap fittings out without breaking.

How I Designed This

Designed in Fusion 360.

Category: Electronics

Descrição

Print Settings

Post-Printing

How I Designed This