I didnt like how messy the wiring looked with all the connectors just lying there exposed so i went looking for something to clean it up, I found a nice box on thingiverse but when i printed it out it didnt quite fit my printer and i had to cut it in a few places to make it fit, My printer wasnt dialed in quite right when i printed it and i wasnt too happy with it, So when my printer was running better i decided to edit the box to make it fit and print it again i also added somewhere to put a USB switch for my LED lights

Changes:

V1.0:

reduced width as i am using extra corner supports ([https://www.printables.com/model/191723-strong-corner-bracket-for-ender-5-plus](https://www.printables.com/model/191723-strong-corner-bracket-for-ender-5-plus))

reduced height to match the electronics box

changed the position/size of the wiring entry hole to line up with the exit of the electronics box

changed wiring exit holes, all ‘upper’ wiring now exits on the back and the Z stepper cables exit to the centre of the bottom instead of the front

increased the height of the ender logo to make it 3 layers thick when printing at .28 (the white didnt cover the black fully when it was only 2 layers)

and finally i added a cut out to add a USB switch to turn my  LED lights on and off

V1.1:

cleaned up the old screw holes in the model that were bothering me, still slightly visible on the model but doesnt make the slicer draw them

added version with out a switch cut out

Print Settings: 

Standard Cura settings for PLA, 0.6mm/0.4mm nozzle, low quality preset (0.28mm) unless specified

Box:

2 walls (0.6mm nozzle) 3 walls (0.4mm nozzle)

3 top/bottom layers

10% infill

tree support for the USB switch cut out as it is filleted to match the swich i had, if your printer is good with bridging you might be able to get away without

Lid:

2 walls (0.6mm nozzle) 3 walls (0.4mm nozzle)

3 top/bottom layers

20% infill

filament change at layer 10 to get the logo in a different colour

lid attaches with 4 M3 cap head bolts 5-6mm long, attaches to the frame with 2 M3 bolts 8mm long and T-nuts, if you dont have any M3 T-nuts, why not? go make some, i did

[https://www.printables.com/model/243890-t-nut-m3-drop-in-rotating-v-slot](https://www.printables.com/model/243890-t-nut-m3-drop-in-rotating-v-slot)