One of the first things I 3D printed, it is somewhere to rest your cue on while playing a match. I made several variations over the years, this one uses a lead ingot, one piece of "pure" lead (rather than many fishing lures in a hole with glue). I am also using some magnets for fun on either end, it guides the extensions into place, not strong enough to hold them solidly in place by themselves, but it's satisfying. Maybe handy if I do a belt hook setup of some kind, like a batman utility belt, could be very stupid.  

Other design criteria I had in mind was for round tables at lower heights, hence the two ends and the size of the grooves, you can use it without the caps if that makes any difference. or add a round bit to the cap where faces the table.  The caps are fairly loose and come on an off easily, the direction of the force is in towards the table, they just need to be in place and prevent the extensions from rotating.  I am using zero tolerance for the fit, at least FreeCAD is telling me so, but the natural expansion differences in my PLA probably help and it's rounded enough that there isn't a lot of flat to flat mating surfaces.  The overall size is due to the size of the lead bit I found, but fits in my case pouch in the smaller section, the extensions and caps in the larger pouch.

I used basic PLA, but I live where the temperature doesn't go to extremes.  I would suspect anywhere you have your cue would not be in that situation either, so should be fine.  Supports for the holes on either end for the magnets and for the lip of the cover, that's it. I used auto tree style but painted the holes to get them included, as they tend to sag for me near the top. It's an easy print, but I did a fancy logo two stage thing taking advantage of the non contact homing of the printer, if you don't have one of those, just don't have the logo under the nozzle anywhere when homing.

MOPHOEXII Bank Sinker Mold and Pure Lead Ingots,DIY Bullet Casting,Fishing Sinkers and Fishing Weights : Amazon.ca: Sports & Outdoors

111mm x 50mm x 8mm is the size of the ingots I found, so I designed the box around that. Designed slightly large cavity due to variances in size. Super glue it down to avoid rattling, a dab or two  is fine. When super gluing the lid on, painters tape helps avoid the glue escaping onto the sides, just be careful not to get it caught in between, it's annoying, and the tape will probably get super glued as well, also annoying.  Once it's glued on I coated the bottom with plastidip, a spray can that gives you a grippy coating, used for things like car hubcaps, you can try some TPU solution as well, but seems tricky to get right. I wouldn't try to make the lid out of it.

Magnets are 15mm x 10mm, my calipers say they are sightly under, but who knows.  I have a bunch I bought from aliexpress:  

10-50Pcs 10x15mm Neodymium Magnet Neodymium N35 NdFeB Round Super Powerful Strong Permanent Magnetic Imanes Disc 10x15mm Magnets - AliExpress 13

You can try searching on amazon for them, but amazon and searching for specific sizes usually gives you the exact opposite of what you are looking for.

Print speed isn't critical, slower is prettier generally, use whatever you filament lies to you about being rated for. I used 4 wall loops and 25% infill, whatever pattern you think is cool and can handle a pound of lead, it's a box so it's not a lot of filament.

Embedding logos (tips):

You print with the same type of filament in a different color first, then print over it with the main body. Same type of filament unless you know the other type sticks to it and stays put at the same bed temperature. I used 60C for PLA.  When changing colours, keep the 60C going by manually setting the bed temperature while you are fiddling around with cutting ends off and removing hoses to get a straight bit down far enough, etc.  Pay attention to homing, don't let any cables get pinched along the way, I even changed the sv08 homing speed down to 25 (unknown units, mm/s?) in printer.cfg.  I suggest one wall loop for the logo part, just for looks.  If you are exporting a compound model from Freecad as stl, keep some distance between the logo and the body, or if may (will?) end up merged.  In orcaslicer, once you have centered and put the flat bit on the bed, (do that in the opposite order), use split as objects and move the main body to another plate and center. I use split as object so the logo drops down to the plate, split as parts can be tricky, I have had the hole in the center of a box drop and odd things like that. When aligning the surface, make sure you are getting the main flat part of your logo, a slight angle may be hard to spot and you end up trying several times wondering why it isn't printing right, ask me how I know, lol.

For the logo shapes, I either converted them online to dxf or found one, you can use inkscape if your brain does inkscape (I can, sometimes), I used the draft workbench in Freecad to convert them to sketches and turned off the display of spines in sketcher, you can resize once you extrude the sketch as a shape or do it in sketcher if you brain does sketcher scaling. Usual caveats with extruding sketches, holes within holes within holes won't work, etc.  I used 0.25 extrude size and make sure orcaslicer had the first layer using the same.

If you have an eddy style homing system (at least for the one for the SV08 by SOVOL), heat the bed first to the 60C first, otherwise it may end up too close to the bed.

EDIT: Added my example file and the blank version (oops)