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Descrição
Description
(last updated April 28, 2026)
I'd looked a few times and did not find a travel case for individual D&D miniatures that I liked and trusted, so decided to go ahead and create the one I had been thinking of. Among other things, my daughter's cats have decided that they like to knock her barbarian platypus I had printed her around and hide it about her apartment. Plus I hit someone on social media asking about source files for good cases that they could not find any more.
This is still in the early stages, as I'm trying to figure out which of potential add-ons and features I should go with. However it is very usable in its current state and is definitely good for testing by the wider community and feedback on what people out there would like to see.
Currently the premade .step and .stl pieces are just of the medium size, but the FreeCAD source is set up to be able to export all the standard sizes.
Please leave comments if there is anything you'd like to see changed or added. I do have a list of things I want to cover, but want to hear from the community first so I can get a better idea of your needs.
Updates
Update March 3, 2026
Added pre-exported versions of normal and tall tops for large and huge sizes.
Created a new set of adapters for certain standard bases (see Related Prints)
Update April 25, 2026
Refined edges to be rounded to be easier on the hands when opening and closing, etc.
Added set of models for "small" bases
Made heights change proportionally as base size goes up
Added 'Wide' variants to allow for minis that extend beyond the normal cases, such as those with wings. This is being implemented so as to make the 'wide' variants fit the tops for the next step up. So a "medium" base with the "wide" variant will fit a "large" top.
If you use the FreeCAD source directly it will include support for "x-wide" to go two steps up.Added three new lock discs: B2, D, and D2
Added a few "large" tops to match the "wide" variant for medium bases.
Update April 28, 2026
New pictures, including some wide and extra wide HexiVaults, along with a shot of all but the largest three packed nicely into a small food-prep container (I often use those for in-process projects)
Filled out pre-exported models for small, medium, and some large bases
Tuned hinges. Now only open to 120° instead of 180°, but that made them stronger.
Tuned up snap-lock twist for larger sizes
Corrected need for supports on tops with larger sizes
Pre-exported wide and extra wide for medium and large bases
Added extra-short "xs" variant tops for use with "wide" and "x-wide" bases
Added most common larger sized tops for "large", "huge", and "gargantuan"
Added "S" split variants of lock discs that only take up half a circle, to allow for easier mix-n-match and tighter holds
Added a simple inner/outer thread test under Misc
Coming Soon
Detailed instructions and step-by-step images
Related Prints
HexiVault Parametric Adapters for Warhammer Based Minis
Printing
Settings
Generally tested with 0.2mm or 0.28mm layer printing. I suggest the larger layer height for the larger pieces.
Supports needed for hinges (unless your printer is really dialed in). Tree supports have worked the best for me, with less chance of damaging the hinges. The rest of the pieces should all print without supports, although brims for the larger tops will be helpful.
General
Select a pair of base pieces (A or B) with or without a lock disc, and a top that suits your needs. If you want to use magnets you'll need to print a proper sized magnet carrier, but those can be added later. If you use a lock disc, check which one you need, or perhaps print a few different ones if you might be switching which minis you'll be taking with you.
Tops come normal, with one window or with three windows. They also can be normal, tall or short.
If you want to cut transparent plastic to cover the windows so that you have visibility and still keep good protection, window stencils have been provided that you can print and use for cutting out thin plastic with.
Post-Print
Once you have an "A" and "B" sides of a split base you want to use, go ahead and clean up the hinge holes a little. For my Centauri Carbon I just need to clear it with a set of hooks/picks, but when printing on my Neptune 4 Plus I do need to pull out my pin vise with a 1.75mm drill bit and clear them. Once that is done, fit the hinges into each other and feed a length of filament through. Trim the ends and it should be done.
Magnet Carrier
If you want to use magnets, then select a magnet carrier of the proper size (I posted pre-made ones with 5mm, 6mm, 8mm, and 10mm diameters). All of the carriers fit in the bases as their outer diameters are the same. Put a little glue (I currently like Gorilla Super Glue gell in the precision grip bottle) on the flat bottom of the carrier and a bit on the sides. Press in a magnet proper side down, using your favorite tool or one of the "magnet press" pieces I have. Note that I like to have all my magnetized minis use north as up and south as down, so since with the opening up the carrier is upside down I'll place the north end of the magnet down. If there is any confusion you can use an existing mini with known good magnetic base as a reference and test piece.
After the magnet has had time to set in the carrier, place a small amount of glue where the magnet carrier goes on the base half with the protrusion (should be the "A" side), press the carrier in open side down, and hold with downwards and sideways pressure until it is set. Be sure to clean off any visible excess glue before closing the base.
Currently I favor using 6mm diameter magnets in the bases of my minis, and 8mm diameter magnets in the bases of the case. Whichever size you like, be sure to use neodymium magnets of a sufficient strength.
Window Panes
If you want to have windows that are covered, find some thin transparent plastic (I've been using that which comes with my grocery store snacks), place and maybe tape the proper window stencil on the plastic, then cut carefully with a hobby knife. Use a little bit of glue applied to the inside of the top with a toothpick and use a clean toothpick to help press the window piece into place.
Base Protection
If you want to add some extra protection for your bases when using a lock disc, apply some thin adhesive velveteen sheeting to the bottom of the lock discs before usage. This can help prevent excess wear on any paint that has been applied to a base.
Usage
Select the proper base (lock disc or no lock disc), set the mini down into one half, then close the base to grip it. Bases with angled edges might be held tight as-is. If using the "no disc" version of a base, the three grips on top should hold the mini in place, and any use of magnets will make it that much more secure.
If you use a lock ring, set it into place on one half of the base before sliding the mini in. Then close the base as normal.
Once the mini is held in place with a closed base, gently slide the top down and rotate to screw closed until you feel the twist lock click into place. The first few times you use one it might take a few repetitions to break it in. The threading has three starts, so if you are using a one-window top and it does not end up where you like it, unscrew just over a half turn until it clicks over to the next start then screw down again.
Minis
I've been asked which minis those are and where to get them. The saracen and skeleton seemed to be used often on Reddit's FDMMiniatures subreddit as benchmarks.
Left to right on the initial picture they are:
The armor from MZ4250's Animated Objects 2025
Platypus Barbarian from MZ4250's Platypus minis ( so far )
Supportless Skeleton Sample Wooden Shield from Arbiter Miniatures
Saracen_rb.stl from BriteMinis' Saracen 28mm (no supports needed)
Additional minis on the new main picture are
Fire Elemental 2025 from MZ4250
Silver Dragon Wyrmling from MZ4250's Silver Dragon 2025
Couatl 2025 by MZ4250
Nolzur's Marvelous Miniatures - Grung #73845
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