A Voltron key holder for an actual key.

The model includes multi-color and single color versions.

The socket that holds the key is sized for my key, however, I've uploaded a model that has a blank area where you can make your own key socket.

For your key to be compatible with this model the key should have a 'head' no wider than 3.2 cm, no thicker than 0.26 cm, and be long enough (and placed so that) the 'hilt' of the key will protrude outside of the body when the body is closed (so that the key can go all the way into the lock). It is 0.42 cm from the end of the key socket to the outside of the body.

I've included a model of my own key which you can print for size comparisons, or use it instead of a real key as a prop. (Or you could make a remix with a fancy sci-fi key).

Most designs I've seen have a center piece that detaches (which is true to the source material) but I didn't want loose parts so the star and crown on this design fold back.

Overall dimensions are approximately 10 cm wide x 6.5 cm tall x 1.8 cm thick.

Additional materials needed: Glue (I find modge podge holds even better than superglue on PLA and is much easier to work with) 1mm Hinge Pin (guitar string is recommended) and four 10mm diameter x 2mm thick magnets. The magnets are entirely optional.

Print Settings

Printer Brand:

Prusa

Printer:

i3 MK3 MMU 2

Notes:

At the end of the assembly directions are some notes about which files you would want to print.

If your slicer has an elephant foot compensation setting, I recommend using it.

Designed for 0.15 layer height.

All parts have been oriented in the recommended print orientation. Printing in a different orientation may result in parts not fitting together well.

The center piece prints with no supports. Everything else should have supports enabled. The file names indicate whether bridges should be supported (to make the surface as smooth as possible) or unsupported (to make removing the supports easier).

The colors I used were pearl, burgundy, translucent blue, gold, and black. A single-piece logo for mono-color printing is included and can be painted after printing.

Post-Printing

I urge you to do a dry fit assembly test of all parts. The clearances are tight and I have had stray piece of support material cause jams, or a slight elephant foot prevent the pieces from sliding. The "puzzle piece" shaped connector tabs have a bump to lock the top and bottom so they don't slide apart after assembly. It should take just a little pressure to snap them together. If it takes more force than that, trim away some of the bump.

Update: the bump on the east has been replaced with a more rectangular tab to serve as a stopper better prevent the flaps from hyper-extending when opening.

Assembly Layout

I'll refer to the directions as east/west/north/south

On the south-most part (the fold down tap with a star logo) there is a bump on the east side and a notch on the west side. (Update: the bump on the east has been replaced with a more rectangular tab to serve as a stopper better prevent the flaps from hyper-extending when opening.) This makes the flaps not interchangeable so be sure the north and south flaps are put on the proper side. Likewise the four body pieces have a particular side the must go on. The center piece (the rectangle with catch-tabs on the end) has a top and bottom but can face either direction for east/west.

Apply glue to join each logo to its respective part (double check the orientation!)

Be sure to trim any elephant foot on the logo or it will prevent the logo from seating all the way into the semi-circle socket.

The surface with the glue on it was printed as the underside with supports, so the surface has an almost porous texture. It took a generous amount of glue to fill in the tiny gaps, plus leave a little to stick to the logo.

Not many glues work on PLA. Most places recommend superglue and it is okay, but in my own testing I found modge podge hold even better than superglue, and it's non-toxic and cleans up with water.

Cut guitar string to length before assembling. This is 40 gauge nickel wound string (Ernie Ball brand, but that shouldn't matter).

I now use guitar string for all my hinge-pin needs. Unlike a paperclip or copper wire, it is essentially self-straightening and doesn't kink. It comes in all kinds of diameters. And the ridges hold it in place.

Assemble the bottom pieces with sliding rails, and assemble the top pieces (see photo below), then lay the top and bottom half together. The center piece will want to fall out, but just finagle everything together.

The north crown flap may be connected to the center panel before assembling everything else, but the south star flap cannot. The south star flap must be assembled in a later step, and for that matter, saving the north crown flap for later is probably easier.

Here is a close-up of how the center panel connects to the semicircular ends. (Note, the assembly is upside down.) The catch-tabs go inside the semicircular body parts, and the hinge goes away from the logo. It should slide freely.

Put the flaps in place, and fold them all the way down. The north crown flap may or may not have its hinge pin inserted already, the south star flap should not have a hinge pin yet.

Collapse the body (so that the key comes out).

On the end of the body are two holes that give access to the hinge pins. With everything assembled and in the closed position, insert the guitar strings (which should already be cut to length). Use a paper clip to push it in for the last 5 millimeters.

There are holes on both ends so that the pins can be pushed out and the key holder can be dissembled. This means there is no way to tell if the hinge pin is sticking out a bit on one side or the other but it shouldn't interfere with anything if it is.

Insert magnets into the four sockets if desired. They allow the key holder to be connected to a belt buckle, or a costume, or whatever your imagination can come up with.

The magnets are 1 cm diameter by 2 mm thick.

Files

This is to help you sort out which files to use and what the purpose of each is.

"white west lower body - blank key" - this is the part you ultimately need to customize if you want it to fit your own key. There are .stl, STEP, and Parasolid versions to make it easier to edit.

key test socket - a small blank slab that matches the size available for the real part for doing test prints. (.stl, STEP, and Parasolid versions)

printable Key - a model of my key which fits the socket. Print for use with the socket, or as a size reference to check which keys of yours might be comparable.

The colored logos have 'connector membranes' between parts of the same color (for instance, joining the top and bottom portion of the crown, or joining the wide stripes together). The membrane groups the parts together but is so thin it should be ignored by the slicer.

Category: Keychains