This is a zero-clearance table saw insert for the Skil TS6307 table saw.  My saw came with a nice metal insert.  But I made this one so I could have a zero-clerance insert, and also as a test print before making the dado blade version.  PETG is a good material for this because it's tough and durable.  PLA might be a bit too brittle and susceptible to warm temperatures.

I included holes where the height-adjustment screws would go.  I haven't used these because the height was fine as is.  If you do plan to use them you may have to modify the diameter or drill it out to fit the threaded inserts you're using.  You might also want to shave off some of the bottom of the plate to give yourself some more adjustment range.

I removed the locking tab on the near side.  I've thought about mounting a cabinet door roller latch there instead, but I haven't tried this yet.  It's pretty secure without any latch.

Models

• Standard - three-piece
  • Design for a standard saw blade, split up into three parts which can all be printed on a Prusa Mini.
• Standard - Single piece
  • Use this if you have a big enough printer to print the whole thing.  Or you can use it as a base version to modify (e.g. if you want to split it up into only two pieces, or make a remix, etc.).  I haven't printed this model.
• Dado Blade (three-piece and single piece)
  • These are setup for a 6" dado blade (up to 5/8" width).
• Outline Template (three-piece and single piece)
  • I used this to make sure there were no interferences before I printed the longer prints.
• Insert Blank - Single piece
  • This doesn't include any cutouts for the blade.  This can be used as a starting point if you want to redesign it for a different blade cutout (e.g. smaller/larger dado, vertical cuts only, etc.)

Printing Options

I used a modifier in the blade slot to change it to 100% infill in the area where it will be cut through.

My supports don't remove super clean with PETG, so I added some clearance between the adjoining surfaces.  There is an additional 0.4 mm of clearance in the areas where the supports are (and 0.2 mm of clearance between the other mating surfaces).  I still found it's best to go back over the support surfaces with a file to clean them up a bit.

Printing on the textured build plate results in a nice looking finish.

I included print files mainly to provide an estimated print time.  They should work fine on a Prusa Mini, but I'd still recommend doing your own slicing to make sure all the settings are correct for your machine.

General Options: 0.20 mm layer height, 20% infill, 5 top layers, 4 bottom layers, 3 perimeters.

Assembly

My dovetails fit pretty snugly and I used the 3-piece inserts a couple times without even gluing them together.  I used superglue to connect them which seems to have worked fine, but it did cause a little discoloration of the material.  A thin epoxy could also work well.

When I brought the blade up through the material I put some wood blocks at each end of the insert to make sure it didn't lift up.  After making the cut I cleaned up the opening a little with a file to get ride of any burrs.

Which version table saw do you have?

It seems like if your saw came with a plastic insert, the original design will fit.  If it came with a metal insert, this remixed design should fit.  I've uploaded a photo of my saw that you can use to compare.  The easiest difference to see is the cutout on the left side of the far end of the opening.  The earlier version has two semi-circle cutouts.  The newer version has a single half-slot cutout.  If your saw doesn't match either of these, let me know!