Você está no 3DFinder
Buscamos em Thingiverse, MakerWorld e Printables ao mesmo tempo para te dar o melhor de cada uma.
Descrição
Hate glue? Make sure to check out V2 of this fidget! I added improvements to the fidget, made it less succeptable to breaking, more durable, a nice outside texture and easier to setup (as mentioned no glue is needed!).
Check it out here: [https://makerworld.com/en/models/834002#profileId-778900](https://makerworld.com/en/models/834002#profileId-778900)
This is a smaller version of the iris mechanism which was used for my halloween cauldron candy bowl so make sure to check that out if you want a bigger fidget ring!
Mix and match which ever colour you desire! Have some fun with it :D
The only extra thing you need is a small bit of superglue for the blades.
You can watch the full assembly tutorial video here if you want:
IMPORTANT NOTE:
You dont really need to use glue, I just find it a lot more easier to setup that way! You can just fold the blades normaly and leave them as is, when you place the securing clip on top they get evened out and the mechanism works just fine! So you can try that if you got issues with the blades ;D
| All Components | |
Iris mechanism body:  | Iris actuator ring:  |
Iris blades:  | Iris securing clip:  |
| Assembly guide: | ||
| 2. When you remove all 12 of the blades, start glueing the mouse ear part, so that you fold the pin to the other side of the blade where there is no pin, after which you apply A VERY TINY drop of superglue and hold it down for a couple of seconds till it hardens. Make sure to not put too much superglue, otherwise it will overflow and it wont hold.  | 3. Start assembling the blades on the top side of the actuator ring as shown on the picture. Make sure to “overlay” them on top of each other, while getting near the end move the other ones a bit to the side (watch the video for more details):  |
4. You should have something that looks like this:  Make sure they are all placed in a circular shape | 5. Leave them on the table and put the main body on top of the pins, so that the top part of the slit is on the edge of the pin on the actuator as shown on the picture:  | 6. Flip it by holding it by the pin, lifting it up and rotating it, or sliding it off the table and rotating it:  After this, check if you can turn the pin, also make sure to wiggle the pin back and forth untill all of the pins are set into the actuator ring and the base. |
7. In the end make sure to secure the actuator ring with the securing clip by snaping it on top of the frame, I reccomend also applying some superglue to the outside of the snap area to keep it firmly in place. Since I used PLA the snap fit can get loose after a couple of openings. To avoid this I reccomend printing the main body in PETG or similar type of material. :  | ||
Additional notes:
If youre having trouble printing the blades, make sure your bed is completely leveled. If your blades turn out stringy and very seethrough you need to recalibrate your bed. You can do that by following the Manual Bed Tramming Guide from the official bambulab forums. For the A1 series just google the same but for A1 and A1 mini.
For any additional questions, critics or help please feel free to reach out in the comments or just DM me! I'll be glad to help :D
I do not recomend printing the blades with Silk PLA, it is too sticky and it doesnt give the blades any strenght. When you peel them off they are sticking to much to the plate and get bent (i did this on a textured plate, you might get better results on a smooth PEI plate)
Happy printing!
