This build is huge and demanding. Stop now if you don't want to waste hours of your time. Be warned, no man can kill the Witch King. Seriously though the full size build will use just over 3.5 kg of filament and take almost 150 hours. There are maybe some ways to reduce this, which I will pop down within the build guide, but tread carefully. The build is meant to utilize basically every inch of the P1S, so I apologize to those with smaller printers.

Build Guide

Handle

The handle is decently simple and should be relatively easy to print. The number of walls can be reduced overall, but I suggest leaving any modifiers and manual supports as is:

1. For the full size and mini profiles fuzzy skin is turned on to give the handle a nice textured look and feel. This adds significant time to the build and can be turned off if you want to print faster. Do not print any connectors with fuzzy skin.
2. The handle consists of three pieces and two connector pieces
   1. The first piece is the the upper handle. It contains a built in support structure to support the ring and the profile contains a modifier to print that section fully walled and with more top and bottom layers. This is to ensure the ring is not a weak spot for connecting to the chain links and head. Tree supports are enabled for under overhang
      1. Remove the built in support like any other support
   2. The second piece is the main handle section. This is hollow inside, so supports are only needed on the outer details. Supports can be tricky to remove, but I found they were necessary for my filament.
   3. The third piece is the pommel. This is unique shape that requires support for the floating sections. I did not have any trouble removing these supports.
   4. The two connectors are just hexagons and should pose no printing issues
3. Once everything is printed, dry fit the connectors into the handle pieces (the larger connector does down into the pommel). I tried to leave plenty of clearance here, so this should be an easy mock-up
4. Once fitment is confirmed, glue everything together with generous amounts of CA glue.

Chain

The chain should consist of 16 links (though you can print as many as you would like). Each link is printed at a 45 degree angle without supports. Once again, fuzzy skin is turned on for a nice texture, but adds extra printing time, disable fuzzy skin to save time.

1. The chains have brims added to help with adhesion and from being knocked off the build-plate. If you still have problems with them coming loose, increase z-hop or increase retraction settings.
   1. The brim can be removed using snips and excess can be flattened after a brief hit with a butane torch
2. Do not assemble links together until the head is completed in full
3. There is also a small connector piece that can be glued to the final chain link during assembly. This help to keep the split part from spreading when the links are engaged with each other. Technically you can add one to each link, but I only added the one. Do not add until the very last step.

Head

The body of the head consists of a top, four main body sections, a center post, and a bottom pike. There are also 16 spikes (8 lower and 8 upper). Finally there are several different types of connectors. Most of the head I printed with 2 walls and 8% gyroid infill (some connectors were printed with less). If you can reduce this, more power to you, but I didn't feel comfortable going any lower. The head will require nearly 3 kg of filament, so be prepared if you want everything the same color. Fuzzy skin is not on for these since it would require weird modifiers to get it where only I wanted it. I did leave them on the spikes though.

1. The top of the head is a large piece that can be printed without main body supports (it was not needed on the ring either). It does require supports on the overhangs on the bottom that are used for connector pieces.
   1. As with the handle, there is a modifier in place to make the ring connection fully walled. I recommend not to change this
2. The main body sections are unique in that you can print them either vertically (as in the print profile) or horizontally. The choice is dependent upon what you're looking for
   1. Printing vertically will require supports under the arms and inside the connection point. This can lead to scarring and need to carefully remove supports or file some sections (depending on how tuned your filament and printer is). I prefer this direction though because the side surface is smoother and makes for a better overall print
   2. Printing horizontally requires no main body supports, but requires either variable layer height or a very low one to get something that looks smooth on top surfaces. Even then, it can lead to weird artifacts on the arms. This may require significant post processing, but it does save some filament without the need for extra supports.
3. The center piece is an easy print with support required under. The built in connectors are 45 degree angles that don't need support
4. The bottom piece I made slightly more walled to make it a little heavier compared to the rest of the head. This is an easy print with under support required.
5. The spikes are a straightforward print with under support. The necessary connector is printed on the same plate
   1. The orientation of the seam is set to be on the bottom of the spike to be less noticeable.
6. Connectors are printed as is
7. To assemble the head is quite tricky, but here was my process:
   1. First dry fit all connectors together to make sure they fit in all slots (adjust with filing or sanding if necessary)
   2. Then dry with all pieces together and get a feel for how the build comes together
   3. After confirming everything fits, glue in all connector pieces and let them cure overnight
   4. The next day, dry fit everything again to make sure no excess glue is causing issues
   5. Once confirmed, the rest of the main body can be glued together. I recommend a thicker CA glue which gives more time before drying and setting
      1. Add glue to the back inserts of the main body pieces and the back of the main body pieces. Attach these to the center post and hold until they are beginning to set
      2. Add glue to the tops of the main pieces, the top of the center connector, the top of the center piece, and the top of the main piece connectors then carefully lower the top piece into position. Some of the side may start to come off, but that is why I used slower setting glue. It may be necessary to manipulate the positioning to get everything to line up as well
      3. Finally turn upside down and add glue to the bottom connector and the bottom and then place the bottom cone into place. Ensure that it is placed in the correct positioning. The bottom cone can rotate a little, so you may want to wait until the upper is mostly set so that you can hold this piece in place until it sets
      4. Hold everything in place for a couple of minutes and let cure overnight
   6. After curing, glue in the spikes and their connector pieces (spike seams face down). Let cure 24 hours.

Final Assembly

1. The chain should begin from head of the flail. The link slit is not large enough to easily pass over the ring of the head. To allow this to happen without breaking the piece, I used a heatgun to gently warm up the piece so I could split it a little more. I then made sure to close it and hold the split close together until fully cooled so it wouldn't come undone later.
2. Each link will then follow one at a time--slide the links slits together, flip the last link around and repeat.
3. On the last link, no heatgun is required because the handle ring is smaller than the head ring (but still might need a little effort). Because it is smaller, I also printed the small two sided connector to hold that final split from coming undone when the links are engaged.
   1. This connector only fits one way, so test fit before gluing!

Full Size Build List

Mini Flail

1. There is also a profile for a mini flail that is 40% of the size of the full size. This is not a scaled version, but actually cut up differently and can be printed completely support free (on the main body, connection overhangs underneath need support).
2. I do not think the chain links will reliably print lower than 40% with a .4mm nozzle
3. If the full size build is too much or too large, I think you could possibly scale back the monstrous size of the head quite a bit and still get something that looks okay and prints well.