Wireless Choc Corne Keyboard Case

This case is modeled for the smaller choc-spaced PCB from typeractive. I prefer not having a screen because it prolongs battery life and added a decorative display cover.

Features

• sturdy design with thicker walls
  • just thin enough for a standard USB-C connector to still fit through the wall
• very low profile
• tight tolerances for a clean looking and feeling build
• insets for the screws on the bottom let you use the case without rubber feet if desired
• optional covers in case you do not use a display

What You Need

Printed Parts

1. Printed (or bought) plate for the left and right side. This is the one I use: plate model.
2. Printed case for the left and right side.
3. OPTIONAL: Printed covers for the microcontroller.

I printed everything in PLA with a 0.4mm nozzle at 0.2mm layer height. To get a print that is as flawless as possible, I reduced the maximum material flow to 8mm³/s. I also made the print solid to get a weightier feel and better sound. Print profiles are attached.

If you print the covers with your own profile, make sure to use ironing for a perfect surface finish.

Bought Parts

You obviously need a choc-spaced corne PCB, such as the one from typeractive. I assume you have the PCB, switches, keycaps, and microcontrollers. While you could print your own keycaps, I prefer buying them because they have a perfectly smooth surface finish.

You also need some screws:

• 10x M2x3 screws with countersunk head (for the bottom of the case)
• 10x M2x4 female/female standoffs (for connecting the case and the plate through the PCB)
• 10x M2x3 screws with flat head (for the plate)
• some rubber feet (e.g., 3M bumpons)

Note: If you do not have those exact screws, using slightly longer ones might still work.

If you want to use the optional covers instead of a display:

• 8x M2x3 screws with flat head or longer
• 4x M2x10 female/female standoff

Assembly

Just some rough pointers:

1. Assemble/solder your PCB.
2. When you insert switches, insert them into the plate first, then into the PCB. Do not add keycaps yet. This is probably a good time to check everything works.
3. OPTIONAL: Screw in the standoffs for the covers and screw the covers on top.
4. Screw the standoffs into the cases.
5. Drop the assembled PCBs into the cases onto the standoffs. Make sure to lower the switches into their side cutout first to avoid them getting stuck.
6. Use the remaining screws to screw the plate into the case standoffs.
7. Glue some rubber feet to the bottom.