Please note that this is not my design, i have just adjusted tolerances and converted the model into a .3mf. For attribution, please attribute leftburst.

🧠 Behind the Design

The architecture of the Atomic Nuke focuses entirely on abusing the physics of a spinning object to maximize real-world force:

• Linear Velocity Exploitation: The main contact point extends significantly further out from the axis of rotation than normal tops. In physics, the further a point is from the center of a spinning object, the faster its linear speed. This results in devastating kinetic impact forces upon collision.
• The Smash Wall: Opposite the extended blade point is a flat, heavy block inspired by industrial shapes. If an opposing top manages to slip past the main blade point, it slams face-first into a literal wall of high-mass plastic and metal.
• Software-Optimized Mass: If you printed this shape blindly, it would violently wobble out of control. Using CAD weight-distribution tools, the internal mass channels are carefully manipulated so that the uneven silhouette spins in complete, balanced symmetry.

⚠️ Safety Warning: Because of the high-velocity asymmetrical points and sheer weight of this top, never attempt to touch or grab the Beyblade while it is actively spinning. It can inflict painful cuts or finger injuries upon contact. Let it lose stamina completely before retrieval.

🛠️ Parts & Hardware Required

To fully assemble this model, you only need your printed parts and minimal hardware:

• Screws: 2x M2 (6 mm) screws.
• Bit: 1x Beyblade X Bit (The original design utilizes a "Low Rush" bit to lower the center of gravity and match the dark aesthetic, but any standard BX bit will snap into place).
• Ratchet is not needed, as it is UX expanded system. You may use an unscrewed ratchet clip instead of the 3d printed one for more strength

🔧 Assembly Guide

Follow these steps carefully to lock the Atomic Nuke together:

1. First place 3 inside of the hole on the reverse  side of 5
2. Then lock the reverse side of 2 into the 3+5 compound
3. Then place the 2+3+5 beneath 1
4. Then add 4  on top
5. If screwing, screw from bottom in the screw holes

🖨️ Print Settings & Advice

• Outer Ring Material: For the heavy outer ring, utilizing a professional metal printing service (such as SLM or BJ stainless steel) provides the intended authentic weight and metallic clank upon impact.
• Chassis & Ratchet Material: For the plastic components—especially the printed ratchet core piece—Nylon, Tough PLA, or PETG is highly recommended. Standard PLA is too brittle and will likely shear or crack under the extreme structural stress of holding the bit during high-recoil impacts.

Note: Although M2 screws are recommended, here is the order of preference for alternatives:

1. M2 6mm screws
2. Slightly longer M2 screws (i.e. up to 10 mm)
3. Glue in the M2 holes
4. Theoretically and practically, it is possible to do with no connector, however, it  means that there is a high chance of it breaking.