This an adjustable, locking gauge built specifically for DIY home improvement projects like framing walls, finishing basements, or building decks. By sliding open to fit perfectly between lumber, it completely eliminates the hassle and mistakes of trying to read a flexible tape measure in tight, awkward spaces.

Measures distance between joists or studs spaced 10 ½" to about 18" on-center. The scale on the ruler shows the actual distance in inches. The minimal measuring distance is 9" and the max is about 16 5/8".

This tool is useful anytime you need to find, check, or copy the exact physical gap between parallel pieces of wood or framing.

1. Cutting Wood Braces and Floor Supports

When finishing a basement or building a deck, the gaps between your floor joists can vary slightly because lumber twists and curves naturally. Instead of pulling a tape measure for every single wood brace:

• Drop the tool into the gap between two joists.
• Slide it open until the flat end plate rests flush against the wood.
• Lock the knob, pull the tool out, and you instantly have the exact length you need to cut your block—no math required.

2. Checking Wall Stud Spacing (Go/No-Go Gauge)

When putting up drywall, your studs need to be perfectly spaced so the edges of the drywall sheets meet exactly in the center of a wood stud.

• You can lock this tool to your target internal gap spacing and use it to quickly test the gaps between your studs before you nail them in. If the tool fits perfectly, your spacing is right on the money.

3. Framing Around Pipes, Air Ducts, and Bulkheads

When framing a drop-ceiling or a bulkhead box around existing basement plumbing and HVAC ductwork, you often have to work around tight, irregular spaces. This tool acts like a quick template creator—just slide it open to bridge the gap around a pipe or duct, lock it, and use it to copy that exact measurement onto your framing lumber.

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Notes on printing:

• Select contrasting color filaments for the scale on the base, and for the zero mark on the slider.
• If you print with PLA then let the model cool down for a bit so that the hole threads and the knob threads become more sturdier.
• Do not use BambuLab's “Auto orient” option, as it will place the slider vertically and make it weaker. The screw threads print just fine as is with the default 0.4mm print head.
• Use the “By object” print sequence option and there will be no waste of filament. Objects are already pre-arranged to avoid print head interference.
• There should be no need to adjust any size or tolerances. I run multiple tests, and adjusted the parameters so it functions pretty well.
• The knobbed screw size is M8. You can use a commercial metal screw, but the printed screw is precisely measured to give a firm lock and the reinforced screw uses just 5g of filament.