Hello everyone!

This is one of my proudest projects I have worked on for many months. It is the reason I learned how to use CAD software. This model is inspired by KORSiRO's Top Glass Slim Riser v1 for the X1C P2S P1P P1S which you can find here: [https://makerworld.com/en/models/759957-top-glass-slim-riser-v1-x1c-p2s-p1p-p1s?from=search#profileId-694547.](https://makerworld.com/en/models/759957-top-glass-slim-riser-v1-x1c-p2s-p1p-p1s?from=search#profileId-694547.)  If you have a X1C, P2S, P1P, P1S or an X2D, go check out KORSiRO's riser. It is my favorite riser which I have used on my P2S for many months with zero issues! It is truly a great model as it is practical for low temperature printing and printer maintenance. 

I want to thank KORSiRO for allowing me to publish this model as my own since I built it from the ground up for the H2 series printers. Nothing here was adapted, literally every single part has been thoughtfully developed and designed for the H2 printers from ZERO. I went through many iterations, used many kilograms of filament and spent many long hours through the R&D process. So if this riser fits your needs, please like it, comment and send a boost my way if you are able to.

Printing:

This model uses dual material printing: PETG for the raft base and PLA for the interface. I have found this combination to be the best option for the best quality. The glass frame (C channel hinges) are printed vertically to completely avoid using supports inside the c channel. I turned to this option after injuring my wrist trying to remove supports. Printing horizontally leads to a nicer top finish but a nightmare with those supports so I highly discourage you from printing it horizontally. Additionally, you have 3 options for the glass hinges: slim- 32mm sides, thick- 46mm sides, or hybrid- 32mm and 46mm sides. Choose which one you want and print it. I printed the slim version.

Features and assembly: 

The frame features large hinges (reinforced with 25% infill), cavities to accommodate the fasteners and magnets on the glass, and a cutout on the sides to ensure good fitment without touching the H2's outer plastic frame. The underside of the right-front frame features a hole where you need to place a 6x3 magnet to eliminate the notification about the glass top being off the printer. Please note, the magnet requires a specific orientation. I suggest you place the magnet on top of the magnet that is part of the glass top. Then close the glass and turn off the light using the printer's screen. While the light if off, raise the glass top. If the light turn on, you have the magnet in the correct orientation. You can also just use your finger to hold the magnet in the recess found on the right of the printer. Move your finger over the foam strip and you will find the recess. 

Each plate has the corresponding frame part for each side. Use the connectors and connect each part. The connectors have a somewhat tight fit to ensure sturdiness. Once the base frame is assembled, slide the glass hinges on to their corresponding side of the frame. Slide the hinge one at a time. Once, one side is inserted, close it and then insert the other one. Ensure to place the 6x3 magnet into its round hole. Glue is not requires as it fits with friction.

When the entire frame is fully assembled, place it on the printer by sliding the front part, which faces the fresh air vent, first, then the back side. Use the C clips you printed to secure the frame onto the printer. The back side use 3 clips while the front uses 4 clips with a slit to accommodate the fresh air vent fins. The fit should be nice and snug. PLEASE NOTE: there is a potential that the front part of the frame, which is the thinest side, may warp a little bit when printing. This in combination with the air vents natural bowing make that part have a gap. To solve this I have provided a spacer which you will place in between the foam and the riser frame in front of the fresh air vent. This spacer also comes with slightly longer c-clips for the center to accommodate the thicker section.

Once the entire frame has been attached to your printer, slide the glass into the c channels in the closed position. Once done, swivel it open to test that everything works.

I printed my riser with Bambu Lab PETG Basic, but if you need higher heat tolerance that what PETG offers, I suggest that you print it in ABS or ASA. For me, PETG does the trick as I do not print materials beside PLA and PETG, or ABS in very seldom occasions. If you print it in ABS or ASA, feel free to post the print profile to this model.

If you have questions, please reach out. I will make updates to the model and listing when I can.

I hope you enjoy this model and that it is useful to you!

Commercial use of this model is prohibited.