Turn any tablet into a sleek, permanently wall-mounted smart home dashboard - no visible cables, no bulky bracket, just a clean flush installation that looks like it came with the house.

This is the mount I built for my Home Assistant Kitchen Dashboard, and I'm sharing the parametric model so you can adapt it to your own tablet. The key dimensions (tablet cutout size, wall thickness, border width, depth, etc.) can all be adjusted to fit virtually any tablet without redesigning from scratch. Just click “Customize” above to adjust.

⚠️ Fair warning: this is not a project for the faint of heart. Installation requires cutting a hole in your wall, running wiring, patching drywall, and painting. The result is permanent - if your tablet dies or you change your mind, you're patching drywall again. Go in with eyes open and read the full instructions thoroughly so you know what you're getting into.

Default Tablet

Out of the box (without any parameter adjustments, and included in the print profile), this model is designed to fit the TCL NXTPaper 14 - a 14.3" Android tablet with a paper-like anti-glare display, which makes it especially well-suited for always-on wall display use. Its matte surface reduces glare and the large screen size is great for a dashboard.

Customization

To fit a different tablet and adjust other options (e.g., cutting the part to fit smaller beds, including a flange on the outside), customize in the model ("Customize" button above or in Fusion) and adjust the following parameters:

• Tablet width / height - the inner cutout dimensions. Measure your tablet and add a small tolerance (0.5mm on each side is usually enough for a snug but not too tight fit).
• Tablet depth / thickness - controls how deep the pocket is. Match to your tablet's thickness.
• Drywall depth and reveal - default is for ½" drywall with enough of the bracket revealed above the surface to allow easy caulking (in other words, it is not perfectly flush, and that's intentional but customizable). This is sown in the cover photo, where you can see the bracket protrudes from the surface by a few millimeters. 
• Border width and corner radius - the width of the border that surrounds the tablet and the radius of the corners.
• USB-C cable slot depth and width - default is for the cable linked below, but can be customized for others.
• Side button depth - how deep the pockets on the side are to accommodate buttons. Be mindful that you'll cut all the way through the border/bezel if this is set too deep (may need to increase the bezel thickness).
• Screw shaft and head size - defaults fit #8 wood screws (I used 1" lengths).
• Option to automatically cut part to fit on smaller print beds - on or off (1 or 0) - if you have a larger bed it can be printed in one piece, otherwise you can print in two pieces as I did (recommend gluing them together).
• Option to include a flange around the border - if you would prefer the bracket to come with a flange around the border to cover the rough drywall cuts, configure the flange width and depth. Set flange width to 0 to disable. Please note the reveal parameter should be set to a 0 or small value ( < 1mm) for clearance so the flange sits flush on the surface of the wall.

If you customize the settings using the MakerWorld tool, it will be exported as one object even if you enabled the “cut part” option. To separate the parts in the slicer, simply right click the object > Separate > To Objects.

Installation Overview

The mount is designed to be screwed into either a stud and/or a wooden backer board installed inside the wall cavity. By default, there is a slight reveal so the bracket sits proud of the drywall surface. I did this so you could caulk right up against the frame, but you can adjust (or remove) the reveal in the parameters if you'd like. You can also optionally enable a flange to cover the rough cut instead.

Before diving-in to the permanent installation I highly recommend getting a scrap piece of drywall to test this on! The technique for cutting and installing is important to practice so you don't inflict unnecessary collateral damage that will need to be fixed later. 

1. Cut

Trace the mount's outer profile onto the wall and cut as cleanly as possible. I recommend using a razor blade and straight edge to get really clean edge cuts, then using a drywall saw or oscillating tool to remove the rest. Cleaner cuts mean less patching later.

2. Mount

If you're not landing on a stud, cut a wooden backer board to span across the opening inside the wall cavity (one for each side, if no studs at all). The backer board I used is visible in the photos (one side has backer board, the other side is on a stud).

Set the mount into the opening and drive screws through the mount flange into the backer board or stud (be careful & slow with this to avoid cracking the print! Doesn't need to be super tight). Then, drive screws (drywall screws - not wood screws!) through the drywall into the backer board. Ensure the drywall screws are driven slightly below surface for easy patching. 

Another pro tip: if your drywall is textured like mine, pick a spot with a large piece of continuous texture to drive the screw through. The patch will blend right in as you can see in the close up picture.

3. Patch

Once secured:

• Skim coat mud over the screw heads. Wait until dry, then sand
• Caulk the seam around the perimeter of the mount where it meets the wall (this can be skipped if using the flange option)
• Paint to match

4. Wire

For clean, hidden power delivery, I used:

• PoE Texas In-Wall AC to USB-C Power Adapter — a compact 30W unit that wires directly to 120V AC and installs inside a standard single-gang wall box, with a short USB-C pigtail. No outlet or charger block sticking out of the wall.
• Shelly 1 Mini Gen2 — a tiny Wi-Fi smart relay wired in-line to allow software control of the tablet's power. Integrates natively with Home Assistant, where I use an automation to automatically keep the charge level between 40% and 60%.
  • **Battery longevity note:** If you're using this mount for an always-on dashboard, be aware that leaving the tablet plugged in at 100% is the worst thing you can do for long-term battery health. Calendar aging at full charge causes roughly 5x faster capacity loss than sitting at 50%, and continuous charging is the primary cause of battery swelling in kiosk deployments. The TCL NXTPaper 14 (and most mid-range Android tablets) have no built-in charge limiting, and no app can enforce one without root. If you're still choosing a tablet for this use case, it's worth knowing that higher-end devices handle this natively: Samsung tablets have Protect Battery (caps at 80%), Apple iPads have Optimized Battery Charging, and Lenovo offers a 60% conservation mode. For the TCL, the practical fix is a smart relay (e.g. Shelly) on the USB-C charger, automated to keep the battery between 40–60%. Pair it with a slow 10W charger instead of the included 33W to reduce heat. More detail here: [https://claude.ai/public/artifacts/f8a2d1dc-ea93-4d04-af66-f349aa051bb4](https://claude.ai/public/artifacts/f8a2d1dc-ea93-4d04-af66-f349aa051bb4)
• Low-Profile Right-Angle USB-C Cable — routes out through the slot at the top of the mount and connects to the tablet's charging port. The right-angle plug keeps it tucked tight against the tablet.

The wiring image in the photos shows the AC connections made with WAGO 221 lever-nut connectors - clean, code-compliant, and easy to work with in a tight space.

⚡ Reminder: Any work involving 120V AC wiring should be done safely and in compliance with local electrical codes. If you're not comfortable working with line voltage, hire an electrician for the wiring step.

5. Install

Slide the tablet into the mount from the front, connect the USB-C cable, and it's done.

🔒 Important: Once the tablet is installed and the wall is patched it can be difficult to remove from the front. Plan for this up front - if you have rear access to push it out, great! Otherwise, I'd suggest making the frame a bit loose and using double sided tape on the back of the tablet to secure it in place. 

The Dashboard

The dashboard shown in the photos is built with Home Assistant and is fully open source. You can find the full setup, configuration files, and instructions at:

👉 github.com/bdunn44/kitchen-dashboard

It includes weather, calendar, vehicle status, smart home controls, shopping lists, and more - all on a single always-on display.

Version Updates

March 8, 2026

• Added comments to model parameters. 
• Added parameters to include an optional flange (currently testing this option).

March 10, 2026

• Fixed and expanded USB slot parameters.
• Fixed flange option (tested and working).

Feedback Welcome

This is my first version of the design and I know there's room to improve it. If you run into issues with tolerances, fit, screw placement, or anything else, please leave a comment. I'd like to iterate on this and make it better for more tablet models over time.

It would be great to see pictures of installs! If you tackle this project, please post in the comments. 

The best way to build out working configurations for a variety of tablet models will be through the addition of print profiles. Feel free to upload your working configurations!

Happy printing! 🖨️