This is a remix of ReVeRZeR_98's original ‘shroud for Elegoo Centauri Carbon (cc)’, adding support for the OV5693 180° USB Webcam Module linked below (or similar) to be used as a nozzle cam.  It has a wide angle lens which can be easily focused, making it ideal for close up macro use.  I printed this in HT-PLA so that it can withstand being close to the hotend and the heat from the LED's, but something like PCTG should print fine too without having to heat the chamber.  

Update: added a small clip to help organize the cam wire and a mount for 5mm LED's (linked below) on both sides of the lens, remixing in zemistr's great plasterboard LED mount (see pic). 

USB Camera, OV5693 180° Webcam Module

[https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B7NVPTWQ](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B7NVPTWQ) (no affiliation)

5mm LED Diode Light, 6V DC Pre Wired

[https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D8GNBN7Z](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D8GNBN7Z)  (no affiliation)

To assemble:  splice in the two 5mm 6 volt LED's by connecting the red and black wires to the camera red and black and place the cam module in the square slot so that the flat gold cable exits down and forward (see the picture for reference). Then carefully smooth out the gold cable along the front of the shroud (it's delicate), and use 2x short 2mm self-tapping screws to attach the PCB using the starter holes to the left and right of the board.  Plug in the USB cable that comes with the cam and route it up and around the cable chain.  It's not long enough to reach the stock camera plug, so one option to extend it is with a modified a female USB extension cable, cut and spliced to an MX 1.25mm pitch 4-pin (male) connector on the opposite end (see the pic).  This will allow the extension to attach directly to the stock CC camera cable connector, which you'll have access to after removing the stock chamber camera.  Doing it that way eliminates the need to take the case apart to run the nozzle cam wire to the printer's motherboard and doesn't require creating a net new completely custom cable. All of this assumes that you want to replace the chamber camera with a nozzle cam, which is what I initially did. 

Another option is to run a USB extension out of the printer and plug it into a PC or Pi.  That would allow the camera to run at the full resolution and 30fps frame rate it's capable of, as opposed to the low-res throttled camera implementation on the CC - but it wouldn't be visible directly in the slicer UI. This is how I'm running the cam now, on an old Pi3b with Crowsnest).  It's passable with the stock CC chamber lights, but I've also added a low-profile LED riser along with the 5mm LED's to make it that much better.

Finally, when shopping cams, be sure to check the specs carefully.  Some look like the pics above, but they don't have a focus ring…others do, but they are not really wide angle (60-76 degrees).  The best cam is over 120 degrees wide and can be focused, in my experience, much like what you might use for macro work with a DSLR.

Update: I decided to use a 4-pin JST SM 2.54mm male/female pair of connectors to splice the LED and Cam cables and provide a quick-disconnect.  This required me to break out the stripper and crimper, but the end result is much neater and easier to handle than the original wire splice (see pic).  Also, if you're tempted (like I was) to reposition the project face up so that all of the supports are on the backside of the shroud, I can tell you that the front face doesn't look nearly as smooth and nice if you print it that way.

Please feel free to post any questions or comments!

Cheers, 

G