Overview

GridfiniDrawer is a printable drawer system with gridfinity baseplates for drawer bottoms. The drawers use printed sliders so that they can be fully extended and hold up their own weight. All grid locations are accessible, even the ones in the back! 

The current .3mf file is the max cabinet and drawer size for an H2S. This will give you four drawers, each with a 7x7 grid. You will need to assemble the cabinet and the drawers by snapping the pieces together. 

More information on the gridfinity system can be found at Zack Freedman's website: Gridfinity | The modular, open-source grid storage system.

⭐ This is a very new model, please comment with feedback so I know if it's working well for you or not. ⭐

Customization

The drawer size and number of drawers are customizable. The customizer tool can be very slow, please be patient. The drawer size is customized in terms of gridfinity units (42mm). The minimum drawer width and depth is three by three units. I've only tested a maximum of seven by seven units and four drawers.

The height of each drawer is set to comfortably fit 7u boxes.  

Known Issues

1. FIXED (1/13/2026): The cabinet bottom is not properly customizable…it is stuck on the 7x7 size, will be fixed soon.
2. FIXED (1/14/2026): The cabinet number of drawers is currently stuck on 4.

Feature Requests

There are a number of features that could be added to improve this model. Please comment and let me know if any of these are of particular interest.

1. Assembly instructions need pictures.
2. Need some more labels on parts to identify their sides and how they connect.
3. Need print profiles for more printers besides the H2S.
4. It would be nice to have a way for cabinets to stack on top of each other without being permanently attached.
5. It would be nice for cabinets to be able to be attached side by side.
6. Options for reducing filament usage.
7. 3D printable labels for the drawer label slot
8. Make it easy to remove drawers so they can be carried over to a workspace.
9. Bottom attachments for feet and/or wheels.
10. Connector specs so people can easily make compatible parts.

Print Instructions

The standard 0.4mm nozzle and 0.2mm layer height print profiles with PLA have worked very well for me and that is what I recommend.

Each of the plates are labeled in the .3mf file. There are 5 plates for the cabinet itself. If you print two bottoms instead of a top and bottom then you can stack units on top of each other permanently.

The plates for drawers are annotated with a x1, x2, or x4 to indicate how many times that plate needs to be printed.

The current 7x7x4 cabinet and drawers will take about 3 kilograms of filament total.

Assembly Instructions

ATTENTION: The cabinet pieces and the drawer pieces snap together and are not designed to be removed. Make sure you assemble in the correct order! You might be able to very very carefully remove pieces…but every time I tried I ended up breaking the plastic.

Cabinet Assembly

1. The left side, right side, and back MUST be snapped together first. There is debossed text indicating which piece is which. The “Left” and “Right” text will be on the bottom inside corner near the front of the side pieces. The back piece has the label “Back” at the top inside. Carefully align one side at a time with the back and push the snap-fit connectors in. I like to start with one end and keep pushing them in one at a time. They should be firm, but not very difficult to push in.
2. There are two options for the top and bottom. Regardless of the option, carefully push the top/bottom pieces onto the connectors of the side and back pieces. There is a chamfer in the holes to help guide the connectors.
   1. Use two bottom pieces. This enables larger cabinets by permanently stacking multiple units. 
   2. Use a bottom piece and top piece. This gives a flat surface for the top, but will not allow another cabinet to be permanently attached to the top. However, you could still attach a cabinet to the bottom.
   3. I guess you could use two tops! That will use a lot more filament though.

Drawer Assembly

1. The back of the drawer has a big wide hole through it. The back has no label. It MUST be attached to the drawer grid first. Carefully attach the back of the drawer to the grid by pushing the pieces together at one side towards the other…just like the connectors on the cabinet.
2. The sides of the drawer must now be attached. They are labeled with “Left” and “Right” on their front-inside corners. Carefully snap them to the grid and back.
3. The drawer face can now be attached. There is only one way for it to attach! 
4. Each drawer requires two sliders. They are labeled with an “L” and “R” for left and right. The labels should end up facing inwards at the front of the drawer. You will need to slide them starting at the back of the drawer's integrated rail. There will be some initial resistance until the slider is about half-way into the rail, then it should move smoothly without falling off the rail.

Final Assembly

The completed drawers with sliders may now be inserted into the corresponding rails of the cabinet. There will again be some resistance until the drawer is about half-way in, then the sliders and drawer should move smoothly in and out. The sliders and integrated rails have stoppers built-in to ensure the sliders operate as intended and prevent the drawer from being pulled all the way out.