Cube lamp in the shape of a Minecraft ore block. 

Compatible lamps

The model can use any lamp that fits inside. However, you may need to print additional parts depending on the light source you have. 

The best look can be achieved using RGB LED lights, such as the Mr. Go cube lamp, available from Amazon at [https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Go-4-inch-Dimmable-Night-Adults/dp/B01E7684I2?th=1](https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Go-4-inch-Dimmable-Night-Adults/dp/B01E7684I2?th=1) . The lamps can be set to different colors to achieve a look matching different ores in Minecraft - white for iron, orange for copper, light blue for diamond, green for emerald, red for redstone, dark blue for lapis lazuli. 

If you don't have a cube lamp, you can use the provided “insert” print profile to fill the holes with white, translucent or colored filament. Then you can place the cube over any point light source (such as the Bambu LED light) and the light will be distributed throughout the cube, creating an effect very similar to in-game ores. 

If your light source is not RGB but you still want the cube to look like a specific ore block, print the insert in a different color, such as light blue for diamond ore or red for redstone ore. 

Configurable sizes

Included are print profiles for the 4-inch (10cm) light, with a 6-inch (15cm) model coming soon. For other sizes, you can use the provided OpenSCAD file to customize the model. 

Simply scaling the model in Bambu Studio will likely not work, unless the difference in sizes is very small. That is because the color modifiers are set to specific heights, and the attachment points to a specific clearance. If you are going to scale it in Bambu Studio, keep in mind the following:

• Always scale the whole model uniformly. Scaling only in the XY direction may sound like a good idea to keep the thickness and colors the same, but then the attachment rods will no longer fit into the holes, as they have different orientations. 
• After scaling, reset the positions and heights of the color modifiers (WhiteLayer, Light, Medium and Dark), so that each takes up only a single layer. 

If you customize the colors using the provided OpenSCAD file, make sure to:

• Use a nightly build of OpenSCAD. It has many more features that are lacking from the old stable builds
• Enable the “lazy unions” feature in the settings. This enables the exported files to contain multiple parts, which will be required to set the colors in Bambu Studio.
• Export in the 3MF format (File => Export => Export as 3MF…). Depending on your defaults, you may need to set “Use colors from model and color scheme” and ”Export colors as: Color" to achieve the desired effect. 
• Open the exported 3MF in Bambu Studio as geometry, and make sure to load it as a single object with multiple parts (you probably have to click Yes to the prompt asking about this).  
• The default file generates a “side” and a “top” together, use the Split tool to separate them. 
• Convert the floating parts into modifiers. In order, they represent the “Light”, “Dark” and “Medium”, sections. 
• Set their positions to the first or second layer of the print. The easiest way to do it is to change to World Coordinates and move the Z position to 0.1 (for first layer) or 0.3 (for the second layer). 
• Decide on your color scheme. You can use the same layers as in the default print profile, or come up with your own.
  • If you're using a different coloring scheme, you may need to duplicate some of these modifiers, you can do that by selecting one and pressing Ctrl+C and Ctrl+V, or using the Edit => Copy and Edit => Paste menu actions. For example, a good way of achieving a dark (but not completely black) color is to place a layer of white followed by a layer of black filament. 
  • A good idea may also be to print the entire first layer (except the medium parts) in white, you can do this by adding a cube modifier. Make sure to move it to the top of the modifier list, so that your other modifiers (namely the medium one) can override it. I used this technique in the default print profile. 

Configurable colors

The different colors of block faces are achieved by layering different filaments. This way I could achieve four distinct shades of gray using three colors of filament: black, gray and white. The default print profile is suitable for Bambu Lab Matte PLA, filament of different brands or different materials may have higher or lower opacity, so you may want to adjust the layering to whatever looks best with your materials. In particular, I noticed that printing a black layer behind a single gray layer produces a nice-looking darker spot with cheap filaments, it is virtually invisible with Bambu Lab filaments, so you may want to experiment with what you have.  

If starting from the default print profile, you can use the “light”, “medium” and “dark” material modifiers to choose which pixels should be lighter, slightly darker, or much darker than the rest. If you happen to have four different colors of grayscale filament, you can move all the modifiers to the first layers and use the four filaments. Most people (including me) don't - I have white, gray and black, so I combined those into different shades by layering them. 

Print settings

I strongly recommend printing everything on a Textured PEI Plate. At least in my experience, using the SuperTack or other smooth plates leaves visible borders between pixels, while using a textured plate does not. A textured diffusor also diffuses light much better than a smooth one. 

Assembly instructions

You need four “Side” pieces and one “Top” piece. Assemble the four sides by slotting the joiners of one piece into appropriate holes on the other piece. Small arrows on the inside should all be pointing in the same direction (up). Finally, place the top piece on top of the four sides, using the same joiners. The joins are mostly press-fit and stick together without glue, however, you may use a small amount of glue to make sure the result is more robust.  

If you're using a diffusor, attach that to each side of the cube separately. Like the sides themselves, the diffusors are press-fit, but you can use a drop of glue, preferably in a location that is not visible from the outside.