Description

I love gridfinity grids for holding things and having a dedicated space for things. But I also love these parametric - no hardware boxes for storing things you don't want in open bins. They have strong hinges and don't require any hardware to put together. I much prefer them personally over the classic ‘Rugged box’ options.

So I decided to add some gridfinity bottoms to the boxes so that they can be stored nicely in a gridfinity base. Unlike some of the other “gridfinity” boxes I've see, these have been designed to fit side bi side each other and other gridfinity bins without extra wasted space.

Printing

Pretty forgiving print. I've uploaded the profile I used for my A1 mini for PLA, but I've printed in ABS-CF (black large box), PETG (white box) and PLA (the rest), with no issues.

0.6mm nozzle should work fine too. The ABS-CF box was printed using a 0.6mm nozzle on my qidi x-plus 3. The rest were printed on an A1 mini.

Print orientation is important. Profile uploaded is all oriented correctly, but generated models will need adjusting.

Parametric

Download the fusion file to modify the height of the box, or use the makerworld customiser tool to generate your own.

Just be mindful of print orientation of the models when generating your own.

Because we want to stick to the gridfinity grid this means the files are only parametric in their overall height and lid height only. The length and width are limited by the gridfinity units. I have included a small 2x2 box (single clasp) as well as 2x3 and 2x4 options.

The files attached and included in the profile are for an interior height of 50mm. If you want to adjust the height you can open the relevant fusion file and adjust the ‘z’ parameter (and the ‘lid’ parameter if you want a taller or shorter lid).

 Note: The ‘lid’ parameter is how high up the box the lid begins (so larger means shorter lid). I have included a ‘LidHeight’ parameter which doesn't change anything, but shows the actual lid height for reference. This should not be below 12mm or it will cause issues with the hold placement.

Assembly

Pretty straight forward. Put the bits in the right place and hold them in place with some filament. But a couple of things to note:

If any of the filament holes are too small, I've had good luck using a 1.85-2mm drill bit to clear them out.

If you only have issues with the clasp hole, you might need to adjust your x-y hole compensation in your slicer.

The filament should stay in place pretty well once inserted, but if you want to fix them in place I recommend melting the ends with a soldering iron.

The rear of the box has a little notch taken our for easier opening/closing. Keep that in mind when orienting the lid.

Hope you enjoy. If you are having trouble generating a box of a height you desire, reach out and I can look to upload more heights.