Background:  The table saw design initiated because I am building a 1/84 scale OCCRE wooden model of the 1893 Norwegian Arctic explorer ship Fram.  I took a liking to this model as my grandparents are Norwegian and had visited the Fram museum near Oslo.  Per the kit plans, the final hulll planking is done using 5mm x .6 mm mahogany hardwood.  Not only is that too wide to be accurate (at scale 5 mm would over 16”) to the actual ship, it is difficult to bend laterally to conform to the inner planking.  Most model ship kit builders sand and fill the final planking to make it as smooth as possible, but on the Fram the final plank seams are clearly visible.  I tried splitting the planks using a knife, but the blade would always follow the hardwood grain.  I thought, hmmm, maybe a wood saw blade attachment for my Dremel Lite may do the trick, and as I worked on it a general purpose tiny table saw emerged.

General Notes:

- I love designs that do not need supports when printed, so all parts can be printed without supports.  Steepest overhang print angle is 45 degrees.  Some parts need to be flipped when printed to put the “flat” side down.  The screws, however, have printing wings that will need to be removed.  Parts are designed in TinkerCad and are as simple as possible.  No nice fillets here!

- Design is optimized in z-axis for my antique Creality Ender 3 Pro that has a .04 mm z-axis step capability.

- How well parts fit and screw together of course depends on printer and settings.   I used Inland PLA+ filament from Micro Center with 210° end temp, 60° bed temperature, .4mm print width, .2 mm print height, 100% cooling, and with wall, top, and bottom counts of 4 or more.

- Some parts have .2 x .2 mm corner relief designed in to minimize first layer spread when that would affect interfaces.  You may still have to slightly sand or blade scrape corners for a good fit.

- Printed threaded fasteners work okay but can strip if over-tightened.  Accommodations are on the main body to glue in standard metric M5 nuts if threads get stripped and metal M5 bolts can be used in any case.  I have used it so far with metal bolts but no glued in nuts.

- Designed around a Dremel Lite 7760 cordless rotary tool and a Gyros 82-10815 7/8” 80 tooth circular saw blade set.

- Dremel attaches to the main body by removing the Dremel “nose cap”, inserting the Dremel, then reattaching the nose cap.  The area it attaches to is stiff enough to hold the cantilevered Dremel Lite adequately.  Note that a corded Dremel might fit but will have different dimensions and its weight will likely be too much for the main printed body back support.  I put little adhesive rubber feet on the base to help keep it place and clamp it to my workbench using the forward ledge.  BTW, I really like my Dremel Lite and it’s only like $60.

There are 4 tables so far:
- General purpose flat. 
- Adjustable straight rip fence
- Sliding miter fence with 90, 22.5, and 45 degree preset fences.  
- My custom parts specifically for ripping 5 mm x .6 mm model planking boards into 2 equal boards.
- The finger guard can be used on any setup.

Before I received the Gyros blade set, I tested the custom setup using a regular Dremel cutoff wheel.  It proved the concept, but also proved that burning through wood is not an effective way to rip tiny little boards.  When I received the Gyros blade I liked the looks of the blade but quickly learned that the arbor included with it is awful.  The 1/8” hole in the blade is held on the arbor by a screw where there are threads and the blade is thin enough (.015”) that it wobbles around as the screw is tightened. It vibrated terribly.  I created a bushing by sanding down some very thin copper tubing that I had for modeling.  It still has some vibration but luckily at the highest 25,000 rpm setting it runs smooth.  I had tweaked the custom table design so that the 5 mm boards fit snug in the slot and are held down with an upper plate as they go through the blade.  I push the boards in to get it started and then pull the two halves out for the rest of the cut and it is very satisfying.

And remember kids, for your safety and protection, never run this setup without the finger guard, eye protection, and gloves.  Those tiny little razor sharp saw blades are going more than 60 mph!   Use at your own risk.  I take no responsibility for flying fingers.

STL Files:

Tiny Table Saw for Dremel-All-V3-dB (includes everything plus Dremel mockup)
TTS-Main-Body
TTS-General-Table
TTS-Finger-Guard
TTS-Miter-Table
TTS-Miter-Fence
TTS-Rip-Table
TTS-Rip-Fence
TTS-Custom-1-Table
TTS-Custom-1-Retainer
TTS-Bolt-Short
TTS-Bolt-Long

I welcome any comments, constructive feedback, or requests for custom parts.