This is a modular version of Diagon Alley.

I did this before I really knew Fusion360

The printed dimensions are 7" high x 5.5" wide x 7.25" deep

I Used Black PLA for the buildings and Grey PLA for the base and hand painted the model to give it the color variations that I wanted. 

Storefronts require normal supports on build plate only. Increase the top interface layers to 3 for all supports. 

Use tree supports for the enclosure to support the pockets for the magnets. I used 5x2mm Rare Earth Neodymium Disc Fridge Miniature Mini Magnets. Sizes are not consistent. You may need to use your soldering iron to press them in. Do not insert them until you're ready to assemble and make sure you're doing this in the right direction so that they don't repel from the detachable side. I superglued mine in. 

~STOP~

Print the images for the inside of the stores and glue them into the boxes before you start, or you'll forget them. They're sized a big larger and have a curve as they glue from front edges to the back as to create a bit of a curve for depth. Dry fit them before gluing. You will have to scale the images to your liking. orient the image to the top back edge of the boxes. Don't cover the top sides as you'll want the light to shine through from the top.  

Windows are single layer clear. These don't always print well. You may have to mess with settings to get a good print. 

     They glue to the front of the window boxes. The window boxes do not require supports for the holes. it's for the wired lights. I used addressable seed lights that seated nicely on top of the boxes

~ASSEMBLY~

I would suggest working each panel. Do NOT fold or crease the store images. They are meant to be inserted to have a curve. Do NOT glue the window boxes in until you are instructed. When gluing the images in, I oriented the holes of the window boxes to the top of print as they will be simulating overhead lighting. 

Back Panel - Quality Quidditch

1. Glue the signage to the front.
2. Glue the store image to the inside of the box. Just a dab or two of glue. Allow to dry. Set aside
3. Paint the storefront and walls as you imagine. I used metallic gold acrylic paint for the signs and mixed a custom dingy red for the store. Left the door black. *Protip - if you drybrush the bricks with different neutral colors, you can leave the grout between the bricks untouched, and it will remain the original color of the filament

Left Panel - Ollivanders

1. Paint the Ollivanders sign. I used metallic gold acrylic paint. A very light touch is needed using several thin coats. I painted the bricks a standard dark brown. Careful to keep the paint out of the grout lines.
2. Once dry - Glue the Ollivanders signs to the piece. You will need to hold them in place and center them. Patience is required. 
3. Glue the store images into the window boxes. Wand boxes in the top, again loosely inserted. 
4. Once you have the walls painted (I left mine black) paint the wand sign and you may super glue to the front of the storefront between the tall windows if you want. Placement is up to you. I waited until after the window boxes were installed and came back to the sign so that I didn't break it off.

Right Panel - Flourish & Blotts

1. Paint the store and sign as you imagine it should be.
2. Glue the image into the window boxes.

Final Assembly

1. Orient the base platform on a stable, flat surface so that the slots are to the back. the front should be solid.
2. Starting with the back slide the Quality Quidditch into the back slot. It's a tight fit.
3. On the left slide in Ollivanders and seat it into the slots that runs down the front of quality quidditch wall. Do the same with the right. 
4. With everything standing vertical and square, glue in the bottom storefront window boxes by using the platform as a resting place for the bottom of the boxes. They may not completely align, but no one will see. Be careful not to glue the boxes to the base so you can take it apart again. It is the most stable fit. You should only glue the front edge to the wall so that you are able to remove the panel. You may need to remove one of the side panels to make sure that you're aligned. These are not oversized and require accurate placement to avoid light bleed. Allow to dry. Remove the panels to glue the upper window boxes into place. They should include a window glued between the box and the back of each window sill. It helps to remove the panels once the lower boxes are dry to complete that step. 

Once Assembled

The enclosure has a slot for a USB type-C D1 Mini . And installed WLED that connects to my smart home so that the lights cycle according to time.

I wired the piece with addressable seed lights . There are more than you need. Use hot glue to keep each seed seated over the holes in the window boxes. Keep in mind that addressable seed lights are one direction, so do your research before wiring them. If you are not sure about this process, then go with something you know. I would suggest leaving a seed or two dangle unused when wiring in case you need to pull the piece apart. Make sure you're starting on the side where the plug is going to be and work around the back to the other side. 

The entire alley fits inside of the enclosure. The top goes on last and the ledges on the front/top enclosure are designed to go INSIDE of the internal and external walls for stability. They do not always cooperate in placement. 

I decorated it with wanted posters that I printed on paper. I also found some barrels and crates and printed and painted them to dress up the street. I'm not going to link to those. You can dress this up as you like. There are plenty of accessories around to make this project your own. Happy Printing!