Summary

Convert your Emax Tinyhawk to a real freestyle micro-FPV-drone with this frame and potentially make it even lighter than the whoop already was !!!

-The frame is a true X configuration which makes it fly even better than before with a little bit of PID tuning.
-The center mounted camera is responsible for a better and more direct feeling of control.
-No need for new propellers since the motors are still downwards facing.
-Only thing needing screws are the Motors which use the original screws everything else is friction fit.

To assemble just screw in the Motors, press or superglue the Standoffs into the bottom frame (main part) than press in the AIO with the silicon dampeners onto the 4 studs. Then press the camera into the camera holder and press the camera holder over the two forward facing standoffs, put the battery strap over the top plate and than put the top plate onto the standoffs either through a friction fit or with super glue depending on your likings. Connect all the cables back and head into Betaflight where you have to first have to change the board orientation depending on how you inserted it to 90 or 270 degree and than remap the motors which is really easy with this tutorial: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WNqojyFICZQ](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WNqojyFICZQ) (This is not from me I just found it really helpful)
For PID tuning the settings are different with every AIO but it also should work without as long as you are not using angle or horizon mode.
Remember to put on the propellers in the correct way and change the motor rotation if when attempting to start it only turns to a random direction.

When you are done with this build to launch just grab the drone by the top plate arm it with your other hand give a little throttle until it slightly pushes against your hand than quickly release it and pull your hand away and take control to land without shredding the propellers just carefully hover close above the ground ideally grass or something soft and disarm. I am working on a start pad but I am running into stability issues right now so it will take a little bit until its released.

There also is a little footage from the test flight but it was really windy on this day so the DVR recording turned out a little shaky: [https://youtu.be/_tbM3EDhPe4](https://youtu.be/_tbM3EDhPe4)

Print Settings

• Printer brand:

  Anycubic

• Printer:

  i3 Mega S/Pro

• Supports:

  Yes

• Resolution:

  0.2mm

• Infill:

  5%

• Notes:

  —————————————————————

  Filaments:
  Camera mount: TPU
  Everything else: PLA (or something strong and light if you have available)
  Standoffs should be printed on their side for more strength
  Depending on your confidence in your flying skills I would recommend setting the wall-thickness of the main part in your slicer higher for a stronger but a little bit heavier frame.
  I got really strong results with normal PLA and a wall thickness of 4 perimeters (0.8mm) and infill of 5% and 2 layers (0.4mm) for upper and lower walls.
  When using stronger filament like ABS or Fiberenforced filaments like Fiberon you could probably make those walls thinner and maybe even go down to 0% infill but I have not tested this.